So ... back to life on a bus. Ayacucho is a very small town located east of Lima in the mountains. In order to continue on to cusco, you must continue through those mountains. See if you take a bus straight from Lima to cusco, they drive south and them east on a very nice paved road. But this is not the option if you'd like to visit ayAcucho.
So Megs and I bought tickets from the not-so-luxurious bus company Los chankas, the only one that travels this route. We board the bus filled with only one other extranjero couple from France/Spain. Off we go! At first it's not bad: the scenery is beautiful, it's still pretty cool. Then the pavement ends...
Were taking this dirt road through these insane mountains. I have to say I was the crazy tourist snapping photos left and right out of my window. The "towns" or I would even call them villages were so, so poor. There was absolutely NOTHING there. Then suddenly you have someone up at the front, tapping on the door to the driver. The door opens and the lady shouts "baja baja". You stop and look around; there is nothing here. Why the hell is she getting off. Then you see her 2 boys walk off and turn their backs to the bus. Ahhh...a modern day bathroom break on the side of the road. Well you do what you gotta do. I just internally remind myself to ration my water supply as to keep from having to resort to the Same extreme.
The bus ride continues as such. Bathroom breaks; people joining and leaving in these remote locations; police stops and checks; and road work. Oh the road work. See in the states, when you have the road only open to one lane of traffic, you have the guys with the signs. Well it is similar here, except that instead of every 10 minutes or so and the sign- guys. communicating by walkie, here it's just a set hour. So if you get to the road at 3:05 and it's the other side's turn, well sucks to be you. You just have to wait til 4.
I think the most amusing part was when we were on these windy mountainous roads. It kind of reminded me of the small back roads in Boone. You'd be winding either up or down these 1 lane dirt roads. Well when you hit a big curve that you couldn't see around you just blare your horn. What else would you do?? Those peruvians and their horns. I think they would be lost without them.
Finally 9 hours lAter we pull into Andahuaylas bus station, where Meg and I had both agreed to stop for the night. After talking with the driver to ensure that there would be a bus tomorrow, paying 50 centimos to use a wretched bathroom, and realizing that attempting to find an hostel in Andahuaylas was going to be yet another adventure, we said screw it and bough the " luxury" night tix to cusco. When I asked the lady what the difference in the 2buses was, she said the luxury one had reclining seats, they showed a movie, gave you a snack and had heat and blankets...score!!! I'll pay the extra 5 soles. Right...luxury my ass: the movie was a 12 yr old local boy with a speech impediment rubbing shells together and singing in quechua, Megs and I had to share this homemade snack bag of a juice Box and "kraps" Peru's version of ritz crackers; I had to jack the blanket off of a neighbor seat that wasn't using theirs (and share with Megs of course); and the heat finally came on about 3 hours in, just long enough for you to put every layer you have on and then start sweating. Thanks chankas...it was an experience. But we did finally arrive in cusco at a lovely 5.45 am... At this point, whatever ... I just want food and a hostel. Let's just say well be traveling via Cruz del sur from now on.
~la gringuita
Wednesday, June 29, 2011
Mi vida en un bus
Yes folks .... life on a bus....I would prefer to do without I do believe. Meghan and I hopped on a very nice bus for our over night ride to Ayacucho. Though the bus was super nice, we were both too amped up and too cramped to really sleep. These buses were obviously made for Peruvians ... my legs have never felt so cramped!!
We arrived in Ayacucho around 7 the next morning. Got off the bus at the "bus station" which really was more of just an alley way with a small room to grab your bag. Off we went into Ayacucho, sleepy and starving. First things first: finding the hostel. We stayed at the simple, but lovely Hostel Tres Máscaras very close to their Plaza de Armas. The Doña who ran the place was absolutely adorable and just about as kind as could be. We put our things down and headed out for breakfast.
What you have to understand about Ayacucho is that it was a somewhat popular tourist stop years ago, but then the terrorism in the late 90s put a huge end to that. The town has never quite recovered. It was amusing, walking through the streets, exhausted and starved, and having all of the small local children pointing at Meghan and I, going "¡Mira! ¡Mira! ¡Gringas!". Yea, they don´t see too many "gringas" in Ayacucho any more.
Breakfast was, at most, palatable. The coffee was horrible, but we were so tired that it didn´t matter. Isn´t that sad?? Afterwards, we walked through the local mercado which made me want to vomit. I forgot how gross it is to see all the meats just hanging out there in like 80 degree heat waiting to be purchased. Uggghhh....I looked at Meg and said "Voy a vomitar; Nos vamos". We walked from there to the "artesan district" of Plaza Santa Ana. After walking and walking and walking, we came to the conclusion that it no longer exists. At this point, it was time for a nap. Our nap was devine, except for the parrots outside in the courtyard of the hostel. They kept screeching "hola, hola, señoooora" . It was obvious that they liked the attention. The rest of the afternoon and evening was spent walking around Ayacucho in search of things that no longer existed and getting pointed/whistled at. Oh Ayacucho! You´ll always hold a special place in my heart.
The next morning, we woke up super early (ya know....like 6 am) and gathered our things to head to the bus station. We had bought tickets for the only bus that goes to Cusco and had decided that we would break up the trip by stopping for the night in Andahuaylas. We had found the station the day before, but were heading a different way this morning; but we had our map and figured we would be good to go. Wrong! See the "Moon" guidebook is great, but often has little details wrong, like being a block over for the station. After wandering for about 10 minutes a nice local man pointed us in the right direction. We were lucky! We loaded our bags, took our seats, and the bus immediately started up. I have to say it was probably the most interesting bus ride to date. But more on that later. I need to get out there and enjoy some CUSCO!!
Hasta pronto mis amores-
la gringuita
We arrived in Ayacucho around 7 the next morning. Got off the bus at the "bus station" which really was more of just an alley way with a small room to grab your bag. Off we went into Ayacucho, sleepy and starving. First things first: finding the hostel. We stayed at the simple, but lovely Hostel Tres Máscaras very close to their Plaza de Armas. The Doña who ran the place was absolutely adorable and just about as kind as could be. We put our things down and headed out for breakfast.
What you have to understand about Ayacucho is that it was a somewhat popular tourist stop years ago, but then the terrorism in the late 90s put a huge end to that. The town has never quite recovered. It was amusing, walking through the streets, exhausted and starved, and having all of the small local children pointing at Meghan and I, going "¡Mira! ¡Mira! ¡Gringas!". Yea, they don´t see too many "gringas" in Ayacucho any more.
Breakfast was, at most, palatable. The coffee was horrible, but we were so tired that it didn´t matter. Isn´t that sad?? Afterwards, we walked through the local mercado which made me want to vomit. I forgot how gross it is to see all the meats just hanging out there in like 80 degree heat waiting to be purchased. Uggghhh....I looked at Meg and said "Voy a vomitar; Nos vamos". We walked from there to the "artesan district" of Plaza Santa Ana. After walking and walking and walking, we came to the conclusion that it no longer exists. At this point, it was time for a nap. Our nap was devine, except for the parrots outside in the courtyard of the hostel. They kept screeching "hola, hola, señoooora" . It was obvious that they liked the attention. The rest of the afternoon and evening was spent walking around Ayacucho in search of things that no longer existed and getting pointed/whistled at. Oh Ayacucho! You´ll always hold a special place in my heart.
The next morning, we woke up super early (ya know....like 6 am) and gathered our things to head to the bus station. We had bought tickets for the only bus that goes to Cusco and had decided that we would break up the trip by stopping for the night in Andahuaylas. We had found the station the day before, but were heading a different way this morning; but we had our map and figured we would be good to go. Wrong! See the "Moon" guidebook is great, but often has little details wrong, like being a block over for the station. After wandering for about 10 minutes a nice local man pointed us in the right direction. We were lucky! We loaded our bags, took our seats, and the bus immediately started up. I have to say it was probably the most interesting bus ride to date. But more on that later. I need to get out there and enjoy some CUSCO!!
Hasta pronto mis amores-
la gringuita
Sunday, June 26, 2011
En ruta a Ayacucho!
The adventure has begun! Meghan and I are sitting on the top of a double decker bus in the very front on our way to ayacuho. We are watching some Adam sandler and Jennifer aniston movie and just ate some strange ham infested meal, of which both of us picked off all of the ham. The bus is quite nice though. It even has wi-fi ... Kind of strange. Ok more in the morning. It's been a long day...
Saturday, June 25, 2011
Me olvida el sabor de un churro...
Oh how I had forgotten the goodness of a churro!! As I was walking last night with Lorena y Maria-Jose, they asked if I had had a churro yet from Manolo's. Of course, I had not. Oh, they are even better than I remember. When in Spain, I made a point of having some sort of pastel with my coffee each morning. I this tradition will continue aqu en Peru. So forgive me if I return to the States 20 lbs. heavier ;)
Churros in Peru are different though than those in Spain. In Spain, when you order them you have an option of flavor. This "flavor" comes along side of the churro in a little dipping cup. For example, a churro con chocolate would have a little cup of warmed chocolate syrup along side. Oh it is divine! Here they are filled with the creme, almost like a jelly-doughnut style. My churros was so tasty last night that I returned this morning for breakfast. There I sat, at Manolo's, with my 2 churros and my cafe con leche, which is pretty much a fix-it-yourself latte. They bring you a little cup of espresso and another of steamed milk along with a small mug to mix them. It's a great system; one we should probably adopt in the States. Sitting there reminded me of Spain; it made me a little sad at the same time. I feel like I had such an amazing experience in Spain, and I am having this amazing experience now; however, I feel like I have wasted so much time in between. This is the end of that. Every summer, every winter break, I vow I will see something new and fantastic while I can. Saying that ... who loves the Oat-goat??
Yesterday, I grabbed a taxi to the center of Lima and headed to La Plaza de Armas, which is their Plaza Mayor aqui. From there I trekked to Plaza de San Martin and tried Plaza Grau. Though Grau was under construction, which was a bumor. It's truly amazing, having visited Spain first, to be able to see all the Spanish influence there is hre in the different buildings and plazas. I have a better appreciation for the construction of Lima's center.
This morning, before Manolo's, I stumbled upon a little farmer's-like market with different crafts and produce ... it was way cool to see all of the local Lima folks filling their little shopping cart things with food for the week.
After Manolo's, I headed towards Parque Kennedy where there was a bunch of music and dancers and some sort of kid's festival. I couldn't get too close, but I still think I got some amazing photos. There were also a bunch of artists lined up along the sidewalk selling their art. There was some amazing different works, but unfortunately they were too large to transport home. I did purchase one small painting done on paper so that it's easier to roll and transport....20 soles!!! that's like $6....i love peru!!
Meghan arrives tonight, and I believe we will be heading to Ayacucho next!! Have had fun in Lima, but I'm ready to move on.
Ok, I'm off for my tour de peru via bicicleta....hasta Ayacucho mis amores!
besos~
la gringuita
Churros in Peru are different though than those in Spain. In Spain, when you order them you have an option of flavor. This "flavor" comes along side of the churro in a little dipping cup. For example, a churro con chocolate would have a little cup of warmed chocolate syrup along side. Oh it is divine! Here they are filled with the creme, almost like a jelly-doughnut style. My churros was so tasty last night that I returned this morning for breakfast. There I sat, at Manolo's, with my 2 churros and my cafe con leche, which is pretty much a fix-it-yourself latte. They bring you a little cup of espresso and another of steamed milk along with a small mug to mix them. It's a great system; one we should probably adopt in the States. Sitting there reminded me of Spain; it made me a little sad at the same time. I feel like I had such an amazing experience in Spain, and I am having this amazing experience now; however, I feel like I have wasted so much time in between. This is the end of that. Every summer, every winter break, I vow I will see something new and fantastic while I can. Saying that ... who loves the Oat-goat??
Yesterday, I grabbed a taxi to the center of Lima and headed to La Plaza de Armas, which is their Plaza Mayor aqui. From there I trekked to Plaza de San Martin and tried Plaza Grau. Though Grau was under construction, which was a bumor. It's truly amazing, having visited Spain first, to be able to see all the Spanish influence there is hre in the different buildings and plazas. I have a better appreciation for the construction of Lima's center.
This morning, before Manolo's, I stumbled upon a little farmer's-like market with different crafts and produce ... it was way cool to see all of the local Lima folks filling their little shopping cart things with food for the week.
After Manolo's, I headed towards Parque Kennedy where there was a bunch of music and dancers and some sort of kid's festival. I couldn't get too close, but I still think I got some amazing photos. There were also a bunch of artists lined up along the sidewalk selling their art. There was some amazing different works, but unfortunately they were too large to transport home. I did purchase one small painting done on paper so that it's easier to roll and transport....20 soles!!! that's like $6....i love peru!!
Meghan arrives tonight, and I believe we will be heading to Ayacucho next!! Have had fun in Lima, but I'm ready to move on.
Ok, I'm off for my tour de peru via bicicleta....hasta Ayacucho mis amores!
besos~
la gringuita
Friday, June 24, 2011
Aventuras de Lima
Alright Brett, I took your advice and began this blog ordeal. Though I am creating it via my phone so we'll see how far it goes. Saying that folks, forgive the lack of capitalization and other extraneous punctuation. Alright lyn?? Love you!!
I've been in Peru now for 3 days and have done a lot of roaming. I think it has been very good for my nomAd soul. I arrived in Tuesday night after a slightly turbulent yet enjoyable flight via Taca. As you can imagine exhausted doesn't even begin to explain how I was feeling. For those of you who do not know I flew out of Miami. See I found a flight for $500 ...how can you turn that down?? EsPecially when flights out of Raleigh and charlotte were like $12-1300 ... So after my initial buddy pass fell through, I began to consider other cities to fly out hoping it would be cheAper and hence I ended up in Miami. The drive was long but I had fantastic company, the lovely Ashley Wooten and partner in crime Justin Pinch, aka pinchy-poo. So braced at the wheel of moshi, I-pod loaded, and plenty of red bull and junk food, we set out at 9:00 Monday night. Even though pinch and I swapped off and I had the option of getting a solid 4 hours of sleep, I had consumed too many no-doze and too much caffeine and besides that my adrenaline was pumping. I was so excited and ready, that I unfortunately slept for only about an hour or 2. This was after a very unsuccessful 4 am trip to the local Georgia waffle house. We arrived in Miami in a very successful 13 hours. Unfortunately it was 10 and my flight did not leave until 4. But there was no way that I could have left later...mu body would have been shot. Plus driving through the night you never know if a rest stop for a few hours will be needed. Hence the 6 hour early arrival. I think the worst part was the fact that Taca did not begin there check in until 12. So there I was: Miami-Dade airport, sitting on the floor, my 30 lb pack still strapped on, waiting for Taca to open their gate. I have to say, rough mAy be an understatement as to how I looked at this point. The ladies gave me very odd looks when I was brushing my teeth and washing my face in the airport bathroom. I mean hey you do what you gotta do right? :)
Once in Lima, though, I have to say I have lucked out. My sister will not be here until Saturday, however, her friend from the coast is here and she and her host family have graciously agreed to another gringa in the house. So I have a safe, free place to crash and leave my gear bomb which is super nice. She stays in Miraflores which is a little suburb of Lima and slightly Americanized but quite busy and very walkable. That is if you can successfully dodge the taxi,s buses, combis and other crazy drivers :) although I think my driving would fit in well here.....Andrea you were right there.
My first day in miraflores I slept in super late And then strapped on my mini pack, armed with a guidebook and roamed. Being a gringo you learn reAl fast to walk quickly, headphones in, and eyes not connecting with anyone. Otherwise I feel you will feel totally harassed. I did speak with one interesting guy in el parquet Kennedy. He was nice enough but definitely had the machismo and flintiness trying. I think I disappointed him when I told him there was no way for him to contact me and that the point of this trip was for me to not make plans...pobrecito.
I did get quite lost that night. But i was rather amusing. Seee there are quite a few "óvalos" here in Lima where you have 6 or so streets intersect. I was on the right track and now looking back at it was only 2 streets over but for the life of me could not get there. So I eventually ducked into a mens clothing store and asked the clerk how to get over there. I felt like such a ding dong. Had I walked in the opposite direction I would have eventually gotten back over but kept turning back right before hand. But after speaking with this man. I was good to go. Though I did bump into a teenager (again a boy) who lightly made fun of me in spanish for walking "redondo" and asked me if I knew where I was going to which I responded that I never know where I'm going but iwas good. I think it confused him a bit.
Yesterday I walked to the coAst, of which I have some amazing photos which I will post when I return. Sorry Heidi...no 3 am photos till I get back :(. I took the road along the coast south into another suburb "barranco". Which is super cool. Very bohemian feel. Lots of cool architecture. A little dirty but in a good way. Not at all Americanized. Once again just roamed about, but this time with a map and I can now say I have luckily Gotten my bearings straight. Ate at a little veggie place. Super funny : I walked in around 7 and the place was dead. I had to poke my head around a corner to the kitchen to get anyone's attention. Apparently peruvians eat at like 3 and then again at 9 so they weren't expecting to see anyone. But it was a very good meal. I don't think a very Peruvian in style but damn it was tasty. And after walking for like 4 hours, my tummy was very happy.
That evening Lauren invited me along with her friend to a discoteca. It was interesting. What was funny was that we met up with her friend Pablo and took a combi to his friend alonzo's place to hang for a bit before. It was only like 9:00 and we could not go to " help" until 11....no one goes out before 111. At Alonzo's he had a girl staying there who went to school at state so she had invited a bunch of her friends over. It was weird. It was like a like a little NC reunion in Peru. Actually one of the girls knew some kids from the banks whom of course both Lauren and I knew. The discoteca was cool, just a guy playing a bunch of American rock and folks dancing. But being my old lady self had to leave about 1. I just don't have the staying power. So I bartered with a taxi and got myself home safely. Taxis are another funny part to Lima: they don't have meters, so you ask before hand what it would cost to get somewhere. Being a gringa, they almost always try to rip you off....i'm glad my Spanish is as good as it is thought; b/c when I look at them like they're crazy and then barter and obviously yes i'm a gringa...but not an idiot.
ok i had written a bunch more earlier today, but apparently it was erased. i'll tell you all about plaza mayor later.
besos y abrazos mis amores!
-la gringuita
I've been in Peru now for 3 days and have done a lot of roaming. I think it has been very good for my nomAd soul. I arrived in Tuesday night after a slightly turbulent yet enjoyable flight via Taca. As you can imagine exhausted doesn't even begin to explain how I was feeling. For those of you who do not know I flew out of Miami. See I found a flight for $500 ...how can you turn that down?? EsPecially when flights out of Raleigh and charlotte were like $12-1300 ... So after my initial buddy pass fell through, I began to consider other cities to fly out hoping it would be cheAper and hence I ended up in Miami. The drive was long but I had fantastic company, the lovely Ashley Wooten and partner in crime Justin Pinch, aka pinchy-poo. So braced at the wheel of moshi, I-pod loaded, and plenty of red bull and junk food, we set out at 9:00 Monday night. Even though pinch and I swapped off and I had the option of getting a solid 4 hours of sleep, I had consumed too many no-doze and too much caffeine and besides that my adrenaline was pumping. I was so excited and ready, that I unfortunately slept for only about an hour or 2. This was after a very unsuccessful 4 am trip to the local Georgia waffle house. We arrived in Miami in a very successful 13 hours. Unfortunately it was 10 and my flight did not leave until 4. But there was no way that I could have left later...mu body would have been shot. Plus driving through the night you never know if a rest stop for a few hours will be needed. Hence the 6 hour early arrival. I think the worst part was the fact that Taca did not begin there check in until 12. So there I was: Miami-Dade airport, sitting on the floor, my 30 lb pack still strapped on, waiting for Taca to open their gate. I have to say, rough mAy be an understatement as to how I looked at this point. The ladies gave me very odd looks when I was brushing my teeth and washing my face in the airport bathroom. I mean hey you do what you gotta do right? :)
Once in Lima, though, I have to say I have lucked out. My sister will not be here until Saturday, however, her friend from the coast is here and she and her host family have graciously agreed to another gringa in the house. So I have a safe, free place to crash and leave my gear bomb which is super nice. She stays in Miraflores which is a little suburb of Lima and slightly Americanized but quite busy and very walkable. That is if you can successfully dodge the taxi,s buses, combis and other crazy drivers :) although I think my driving would fit in well here.....Andrea you were right there.
My first day in miraflores I slept in super late And then strapped on my mini pack, armed with a guidebook and roamed. Being a gringo you learn reAl fast to walk quickly, headphones in, and eyes not connecting with anyone. Otherwise I feel you will feel totally harassed. I did speak with one interesting guy in el parquet Kennedy. He was nice enough but definitely had the machismo and flintiness trying. I think I disappointed him when I told him there was no way for him to contact me and that the point of this trip was for me to not make plans...pobrecito.
I did get quite lost that night. But i was rather amusing. Seee there are quite a few "óvalos" here in Lima where you have 6 or so streets intersect. I was on the right track and now looking back at it was only 2 streets over but for the life of me could not get there. So I eventually ducked into a mens clothing store and asked the clerk how to get over there. I felt like such a ding dong. Had I walked in the opposite direction I would have eventually gotten back over but kept turning back right before hand. But after speaking with this man. I was good to go. Though I did bump into a teenager (again a boy) who lightly made fun of me in spanish for walking "redondo" and asked me if I knew where I was going to which I responded that I never know where I'm going but iwas good. I think it confused him a bit.
Yesterday I walked to the coAst, of which I have some amazing photos which I will post when I return. Sorry Heidi...no 3 am photos till I get back :(. I took the road along the coast south into another suburb "barranco". Which is super cool. Very bohemian feel. Lots of cool architecture. A little dirty but in a good way. Not at all Americanized. Once again just roamed about, but this time with a map and I can now say I have luckily Gotten my bearings straight. Ate at a little veggie place. Super funny : I walked in around 7 and the place was dead. I had to poke my head around a corner to the kitchen to get anyone's attention. Apparently peruvians eat at like 3 and then again at 9 so they weren't expecting to see anyone. But it was a very good meal. I don't think a very Peruvian in style but damn it was tasty. And after walking for like 4 hours, my tummy was very happy.
That evening Lauren invited me along with her friend to a discoteca. It was interesting. What was funny was that we met up with her friend Pablo and took a combi to his friend alonzo's place to hang for a bit before. It was only like 9:00 and we could not go to " help" until 11....no one goes out before 111. At Alonzo's he had a girl staying there who went to school at state so she had invited a bunch of her friends over. It was weird. It was like a like a little NC reunion in Peru. Actually one of the girls knew some kids from the banks whom of course both Lauren and I knew. The discoteca was cool, just a guy playing a bunch of American rock and folks dancing. But being my old lady self had to leave about 1. I just don't have the staying power. So I bartered with a taxi and got myself home safely. Taxis are another funny part to Lima: they don't have meters, so you ask before hand what it would cost to get somewhere. Being a gringa, they almost always try to rip you off....i'm glad my Spanish is as good as it is thought; b/c when I look at them like they're crazy and then barter and obviously yes i'm a gringa...but not an idiot.
ok i had written a bunch more earlier today, but apparently it was erased. i'll tell you all about plaza mayor later.
besos y abrazos mis amores!
-la gringuita
Subscribe to:
Comments (Atom)