I leave tomorrow night....yes that would be Monday... To begin a journey that will put me in NC very early thursday morning. I don't know if there is a way for you to mentally prepare for a journey like this. The itinerary is as follows:
Bus - depart máncora: 5:15 pm monday
Arrive lima : 12:30 pm Tuesday
Plane - depart lima : 9:56 pm tuesday
Arrive Quito, Ecuador : 12:21 am Wednesday
Depart Quito : 6:20 am Wednesday
Arrive bógota, colombia: 7:50 am Wednesday
Depart bogota: 10:20 am Wednesday
Arrive Miami, Florida : 3:00 pm wednesday
Car: depart Miami - 4:30/5:00 pm Wednesday (more or less)
Arrive winston-Salem, nc : 6:00 am thursday
At this point, this travel itinerary just seems a tad ridiculous. Can I get some ambian please? :)
Sunday, July 17, 2011
Viviendo con hombres....blehh......Qué horrible
So I have been in máncora for a few days now and it's quite lovely. I'm staying at a Loki hostel which is a south American hostel chain. In retrospect, it would probably not be my first choice. But at the time, I didn't have too much info on the hostels here and a lot of them seemed like little shanty style, which I was done with. Plus it was 9 am and I had just finished a, like, 17 hour bus ride....so I was disoriented to say the least and in desperate need of a place to out my bag down and get a cup of coffee. The girl that I had met in Lima had stayed at a Loki before and had kind of convinced me of it already. Then when I stumbled upon it, I was totally down. It's a tad more expensive than what I was used to paying (36 soles/person for a small dorm versus 20-30soles per person for a private room) but they are right on the beach, have a pool, wi-fi, a bar, and offer breakfast. Plus the beds are quite comfy. Plus from what I had read the nicer hostels in máncora were going to be similarly priced. So there I was: Loki hostel for my last stay in Perú.
So they put me in a small dorm (4 people and a private bath) with 3 other guys. The one dude was sleeping the entire day that I arrived (rough night I suppose) and the other 2 checked out shortly after my arrival. I have no issue staying with guys. Granted I don't feel comfortable sleeping in my underwear but I don't typically get to do that when I'm staying in a dorm anyhow. That night I didn't see dude #1 at all and the other 2 beds stayed open. The next morning 2 more boys arrived. They are (and I could be wrong of their nationality) Matt from Australia and Tim I think from the uk. Tim however had been traveling so much that I kind of lost track of where he started. That iS one thing I have noticed. I have met a ton of europeans and a lot of them have been hopping around for at least 6 months if not longer. Mist be nice. I'm not quite sure how any if them can afford it but power to them. Though the one girl I spoke with did say that after she graduated she had planned this and moved back home to live with her parents and work to save. Which makes a lot of sense. Plus the pound and euro are so strong here (sîan said it was like 4.7 soles to the pound! It's only 2.7 to the dollar :( ) that I suppose they can travel a tad easier. I wish I got paid in £.
But yes, so they are all nice enough. Tim did some teaching in cusco so we had some good convos about teaching and American politics ( he thinks plain is quite the idiot!). However they are gross!!! They leave food all over the place, hair in the sink from shaving, I think there was pee on the floor near the toilet the other morning, and I'm pretty sure I woke up to one of them jacking off this morning. Ugh boys. And if that's not enough you wake up (and I'm usually the first up) they have the luck to just sleep in their boxers, but boxers don't alwAys provide a ton of privacy and because it's the beach we just have a sheet on our beds which you don't really use because it's so flipping warm....so yea I've seen a bit more than I'd care to in that regard. At this rate, I'll never want to live with another boy again!!
Other than that the hostel is fine. Though noisy as hell. It's kind of like throwing yourself into a giant Real World/frat party extravaganza. I think I prefer the mellow little hostels with fewer accomodations. But I guess you live and learn!
So they put me in a small dorm (4 people and a private bath) with 3 other guys. The one dude was sleeping the entire day that I arrived (rough night I suppose) and the other 2 checked out shortly after my arrival. I have no issue staying with guys. Granted I don't feel comfortable sleeping in my underwear but I don't typically get to do that when I'm staying in a dorm anyhow. That night I didn't see dude #1 at all and the other 2 beds stayed open. The next morning 2 more boys arrived. They are (and I could be wrong of their nationality) Matt from Australia and Tim I think from the uk. Tim however had been traveling so much that I kind of lost track of where he started. That iS one thing I have noticed. I have met a ton of europeans and a lot of them have been hopping around for at least 6 months if not longer. Mist be nice. I'm not quite sure how any if them can afford it but power to them. Though the one girl I spoke with did say that after she graduated she had planned this and moved back home to live with her parents and work to save. Which makes a lot of sense. Plus the pound and euro are so strong here (sîan said it was like 4.7 soles to the pound! It's only 2.7 to the dollar :( ) that I suppose they can travel a tad easier. I wish I got paid in £.
But yes, so they are all nice enough. Tim did some teaching in cusco so we had some good convos about teaching and American politics ( he thinks plain is quite the idiot!). However they are gross!!! They leave food all over the place, hair in the sink from shaving, I think there was pee on the floor near the toilet the other morning, and I'm pretty sure I woke up to one of them jacking off this morning. Ugh boys. And if that's not enough you wake up (and I'm usually the first up) they have the luck to just sleep in their boxers, but boxers don't alwAys provide a ton of privacy and because it's the beach we just have a sheet on our beds which you don't really use because it's so flipping warm....so yea I've seen a bit more than I'd care to in that regard. At this rate, I'll never want to live with another boy again!!
Other than that the hostel is fine. Though noisy as hell. It's kind of like throwing yourself into a giant Real World/frat party extravaganza. I think I prefer the mellow little hostels with fewer accomodations. But I guess you live and learn!
Saturday, July 16, 2011
La salida de meggy: ¡Ay! Qué triste :(
So Megs left this evening and I have to say it's a pretty sad feeling. Though quite invigorating at the same time. I loved getting a cab for her though. We were just outside of laurens host family's apartment where she had left stuff. We get a cab for her pretty quickly. She explains where she needs to go and asks how much. 40 soles. Ummm 30? Megs asks. The cab driver winces and says 35. I look at her like ok that's doable. Shed been joking that she would have to find a cab for 30 b/c that is all she had. But I thought when she mentioned that to the guy she was honestly just joking. Oh no. She hadn't been. She looked at me and says "you have 5 soles because I only have 30." I laugh and look in my wallet hoping that I do. ¡Claro! And hand her the 5 soles. Oh Megs. She looks at me and says I was just going to keep flagging down cabs till I found one for 30. I love my hermanita and was sad as the cab drove off.
When we got in today from our uneventful ride from paracas, I waited in line at the bus station to get the first ticket to Máncora. 3:30 tomorrow the lady tells me, after I have waited in lime for 30 minutes. Seriously??! Well looks like I'm staying the night in Lima which is fine. I was just hoping to catch a night bus immediately. But the bus, even though it leaves in the afternoon, won't arrive in máncora until 9 Thursday morning. So I suppose that's the best I'm gonna get.
We hail a cab to take us to parque Kennedy, which is close enough to lauren's apartment. The driver looks at me: 10 soles. I am shocked sometimes at how brazen I am. I laugh slightly in his face and shake my head no. Last time we took a cab it was only 6. He starts to point to a sign that explains how much cab fares should be. Look parque Kennedy 10 soles. I, on a whim, make up a story about how I have lived in miraflores and taken cabs to and from. It has been 6-8 soles in the past but never more than 8. There are 2 cab drivers hovering and the original looks at me like I'm crazy but the other After a few seconds is like ok ok whatever. Come on. That's what I thought!!
After we get in the cab ready to roll Megs turns to me and asks if I'd seen the guys that were sitting and watching us. I had but had been too involved in negotiating to pay attention to what they were saying. She hadn't caught it all but apparently they were commenting on the gringa giving the cab drivers a hard time. :) what can I say...I'm a brazen one at times.
So now I'm here at some common backpacker hostel. It's kind of loud but filled with travelers which is pretty cool. I spoke with the girl who is in the bunk below And turns out she's is heading to mancera tomorrow also. So I think were going to share a cab over. So looks like this hostel will work out.
I also picked up another book for my journey. I dont remember the title but it's about an autistic man who is highly affected by the death of a neighbors dog. It sounds really good and I'm quite excited to have it for the last leg of my journey.
Oh the last leg of my journey. It sounds so sad. Though I'm happy to have it ending with some solo time on a beach up north. It will be warm and chill, which is what i think I need. And in all honesty I'm a liitle excited to come back to sanity. More than anything I'll be happy to feel clean again. To take a shower in warm water on a consistent basis and wash my clothes. Ahhh the luxuries of a non-nomad. Its the little things that you miss the most.
When we got in today from our uneventful ride from paracas, I waited in line at the bus station to get the first ticket to Máncora. 3:30 tomorrow the lady tells me, after I have waited in lime for 30 minutes. Seriously??! Well looks like I'm staying the night in Lima which is fine. I was just hoping to catch a night bus immediately. But the bus, even though it leaves in the afternoon, won't arrive in máncora until 9 Thursday morning. So I suppose that's the best I'm gonna get.
We hail a cab to take us to parque Kennedy, which is close enough to lauren's apartment. The driver looks at me: 10 soles. I am shocked sometimes at how brazen I am. I laugh slightly in his face and shake my head no. Last time we took a cab it was only 6. He starts to point to a sign that explains how much cab fares should be. Look parque Kennedy 10 soles. I, on a whim, make up a story about how I have lived in miraflores and taken cabs to and from. It has been 6-8 soles in the past but never more than 8. There are 2 cab drivers hovering and the original looks at me like I'm crazy but the other After a few seconds is like ok ok whatever. Come on. That's what I thought!!
After we get in the cab ready to roll Megs turns to me and asks if I'd seen the guys that were sitting and watching us. I had but had been too involved in negotiating to pay attention to what they were saying. She hadn't caught it all but apparently they were commenting on the gringa giving the cab drivers a hard time. :) what can I say...I'm a brazen one at times.
So now I'm here at some common backpacker hostel. It's kind of loud but filled with travelers which is pretty cool. I spoke with the girl who is in the bunk below And turns out she's is heading to mancera tomorrow also. So I think were going to share a cab over. So looks like this hostel will work out.
I also picked up another book for my journey. I dont remember the title but it's about an autistic man who is highly affected by the death of a neighbors dog. It sounds really good and I'm quite excited to have it for the last leg of my journey.
Oh the last leg of my journey. It sounds so sad. Though I'm happy to have it ending with some solo time on a beach up north. It will be warm and chill, which is what i think I need. And in all honesty I'm a liitle excited to come back to sanity. More than anything I'll be happy to feel clean again. To take a shower in warm water on a consistent basis and wash my clothes. Ahhh the luxuries of a non-nomad. Its the little things that you miss the most.
¡Vimos pingüinos! ¡Y ... Sea lions! (no se cómo se llama en español). Fue mejor que un zoológico
The next morning, oswaldo picked us up as planned. He was quite punctual which was rather Amusing seeing as we are still in Peru. Peruvians are funny like that. They will have no sense of time at all and then suddenly be punctual about certain things starting. But I suppose in that regard they are kind of catering towards the tourist population and I suppose we do expect them to be on time for things like that. We told him that we would not be camping again and he offered to store our bags at his office. Awesome. We were kind of hoping he would do that. The peruvians we have come across are very helpful like that. For example yesterday when we went to get groceries the park ranger guy offered to keep our bags there so we wouldn't have to lug them around. And no dad they aren't out to rob us; I think that they just see a lot of backpackers and are happy to help when they can.
Now I will say we payed oswaldo for a "tour" and then got in line with a ton of other folks and paid our entrance to the island. I think that we probably could have just gotten in line on our own and bought those entrance tickets. But whatever. We did what everyone does. They go somewhere and pay about 30soles for a tour and then all end up at the dock. And who knows ... Maybe we wouldn't have been able to roll up to the dock solo. And that would have sucked. But anyone going in the future, I would just try rolling up to the blue dock in paracas and see if anyone notices :)
I was slightly disappointed by the tour but I think that's how I am with tours. I feel like if I'm paying for a tour I want it to wow me. Not just feel like I could have read a book and then gone to see on my own and gotten the same effect. Now don't get me wrong, the islands were beautiful. They did not disappoint me. Just the tour was a slight let down. Plus you get on this speed boat filled with about 30 other tourists who are standing and pointing and taking photos...I'm just not a big fan of the tourist style of things.
The islands were a bird haven. I have never seen so many birds in one location in my life. It was amazing. Now the smell of all the guano these birds produce, not so amazing. The best part was seeing the penguins, just hanging out, in their own home. Now I know everyone loves zoos because you get to see all of these animals that you typically don't get to see, but personally, even though I love the animals, zoos make me a little sad. Those animals should be chilling where they want to be, not captured and thrown into some large cage in the middle of a big US city. Now the endangered ones, slightly different story...but so obviously you can imagine how nice it was for me to be able to enjoy seeing these animals sans cage. There were also sea lions!! They were just hanging out on rocks as if they were saying "what's up guys? Having a good day. Oh you're going to take a picture? Here let me turn to my good side". It was awesome. I think the best part of the boat ride/tour was the ride back. I kept seeing the sea lions swimming in the ocean. The funniest was when you saw them floating on their backs like otters would. Killer I tell you. Killer.
When we had been camping we bumped into a couple of French girls who were walking around. Very nice folks. But they had told us about a very economical hostel that they were staying at, the maku house. 10 soles. Night per person. So me and Megs definitely were going to check it out. When oswaldo met up up with us again we explained to him where we were going and he graciously walked us over. It was literally across the street. He spoke with the woman in charge and got us settled into our room. Oh oswaldo: such a nice and helpful dude. The hostel was hysterical, ran in your typical Latin American style. There's a guy working on a boat in front; they live behind the communal kitchen; and there 2 year old lumenica is running the show, along with her younger sister, though she's confined to her walker which can't leave the kitchen. But they were extremely nice, no hot water but it wasn't quite freezing, and it's 10 soles; that is like $3 a person....can't really complain for that price.
Our time in paracas seemed like it dragged on forever. There is nothing there. Though we did stumble upon this really cool woodcarver artisan. He was super nice and made everything by hand. And he had a story for every piece he made. I bought his awesome metal cuff with a large spider line drawing etched into it and he told me this whole tale of he significance of he spider. Now you have to admit, that kind of guy is worth spending you're money on. I have tried to make it a point only to buy handcrafts from those that I actually see making them. It's kind of tough. A lot of the stands are just your typical tourist crap. Paracas was what Meg and I liked to call the wings of Peru. :) but not our guy. He was pretty awesome.
Now I will say we payed oswaldo for a "tour" and then got in line with a ton of other folks and paid our entrance to the island. I think that we probably could have just gotten in line on our own and bought those entrance tickets. But whatever. We did what everyone does. They go somewhere and pay about 30soles for a tour and then all end up at the dock. And who knows ... Maybe we wouldn't have been able to roll up to the dock solo. And that would have sucked. But anyone going in the future, I would just try rolling up to the blue dock in paracas and see if anyone notices :)
I was slightly disappointed by the tour but I think that's how I am with tours. I feel like if I'm paying for a tour I want it to wow me. Not just feel like I could have read a book and then gone to see on my own and gotten the same effect. Now don't get me wrong, the islands were beautiful. They did not disappoint me. Just the tour was a slight let down. Plus you get on this speed boat filled with about 30 other tourists who are standing and pointing and taking photos...I'm just not a big fan of the tourist style of things.
The islands were a bird haven. I have never seen so many birds in one location in my life. It was amazing. Now the smell of all the guano these birds produce, not so amazing. The best part was seeing the penguins, just hanging out, in their own home. Now I know everyone loves zoos because you get to see all of these animals that you typically don't get to see, but personally, even though I love the animals, zoos make me a little sad. Those animals should be chilling where they want to be, not captured and thrown into some large cage in the middle of a big US city. Now the endangered ones, slightly different story...but so obviously you can imagine how nice it was for me to be able to enjoy seeing these animals sans cage. There were also sea lions!! They were just hanging out on rocks as if they were saying "what's up guys? Having a good day. Oh you're going to take a picture? Here let me turn to my good side". It was awesome. I think the best part of the boat ride/tour was the ride back. I kept seeing the sea lions swimming in the ocean. The funniest was when you saw them floating on their backs like otters would. Killer I tell you. Killer.
When we had been camping we bumped into a couple of French girls who were walking around. Very nice folks. But they had told us about a very economical hostel that they were staying at, the maku house. 10 soles. Night per person. So me and Megs definitely were going to check it out. When oswaldo met up up with us again we explained to him where we were going and he graciously walked us over. It was literally across the street. He spoke with the woman in charge and got us settled into our room. Oh oswaldo: such a nice and helpful dude. The hostel was hysterical, ran in your typical Latin American style. There's a guy working on a boat in front; they live behind the communal kitchen; and there 2 year old lumenica is running the show, along with her younger sister, though she's confined to her walker which can't leave the kitchen. But they were extremely nice, no hot water but it wasn't quite freezing, and it's 10 soles; that is like $3 a person....can't really complain for that price.
Our time in paracas seemed like it dragged on forever. There is nothing there. Though we did stumble upon this really cool woodcarver artisan. He was super nice and made everything by hand. And he had a story for every piece he made. I bought his awesome metal cuff with a large spider line drawing etched into it and he told me this whole tale of he significance of he spider. Now you have to admit, that kind of guy is worth spending you're money on. I have tried to make it a point only to buy handcrafts from those that I actually see making them. It's kind of tough. A lot of the stands are just your typical tourist crap. Paracas was what Meg and I liked to call the wings of Peru. :) but not our guy. He was pretty awesome.
Friday, July 15, 2011
Acampando en la reserva: una reserva sin alguien
After our dune buggy adventure our new friend returned to Lima, while we got tickets to continue on the paracas. Paracas is a beach town with a natural reserve to the south and the ballestas islands not far from it's coast. When we arrived we realized that's it. There's nothing else. We had planned on going to the reserve Sunday afternoon, camping that night, going on the island tour Monday morning, returning to the reserve Monday night to camp, and then departing to Lima. After arrival our plans definitely changed.
So we get into paracas and first thing, buy departure tickets. No reason to wait and we are already at the station. Plus depending on the time that the bus leaves will affect our days. We have to catch the bus in the morning ( we were hoping for a very early afternoon like 1...oh well) at 11 on Tuesday. So now it has been settled. We have to do the islands tour on Monday morning. They don't get back until sometime after 10 and that would possibly make the bus ride a little rush...besides....what else are we gonna do. So tickets purchased, off we walk towards the reserve. We figure we will walk to town, grab a bite to eat (Ceviche!!!), grab some food for camp, and then walk to the reserve. Were nearing town and decide to stop into a tourist info booth to ask about the reserve and possibly grab a map. Oh and ask about an ATM. We have mentioned camping to a few people and had gotten mixed info. "oh it's beautiful and safe" "it's very dangerous" " the beat place to camp is right in town, not on the reserva" " no one camps on the reserva" but both of our books said it was a great experience and that it was secure. So the woman at the booth said she wasn't sure but she didn't think camping was allowed. And she didn't have a map we could take but we just stayed on this road to get there but it was very far like 3km....wait that's not even 2 miles .... Oh well be fine. No sense in paying for a cab. She points us towards an ATM as well. We walk through town and after some questionable food decide to go the ATM and then just walk to the reserve to find out what's going on. We didn't want to buy a bunch of food and then get all the way down there to find out that we can't camp.
The first ATM building is closed, so we inquire about another. They point us further down the road to hotel paracas. Off we go. We walk down this side road for a bit, and we come across this barricaded white stone structure: hotel paracas. What the?? Where's the ATM?? So I walk inside the gate and head towards the three guards in front of the front door. All I have to say is disculpa and the one younger guard says in perfect English ATM? Awesome. It is that obvious we are so not guests. He leads us to there "business center" outfitted with computers, fax and copy machines, and free coffee. Oh and an ATM machine in the corner. Meg and I both use it and are just finishing up when the guy comes back in as if he was making sure we weren't helping ourselves to the coffee :) which I did consider. We thank him and leave. On our way out we stop at the other guards box and make sure we are going the right way. Oh yea just stay on this road for about another 3km and you'll see it. Wait .... 3km?? I swear weve already walked one or two ... Peruvians And their lack of sense of time and distance.
So after what seems like forever we arrive at the backside of the guard station. The guys comes out and we talk to him for a bit. He says it's totally straight to camp and that there is a safe spot about 10km in. Seriously??! I'm so not walking that. We ask about cabs coming in and out. He offers to call us one that can take us back to town for food and then will take us to the beach. Thus we meet oswaldo.
Oswaldo was awesome. And hysterical just like every other Peruvian we have met. He takes us to a little hut of a shop to grab groceries. We go in and are trying to hurry because we don't want to make home wait too long. We pay and rush out to find the car empty. We look around. Oh there's oswaldo in the store watching the soccer game. When he notices us he jumps up and rushes back. Guess he didnt expect or probably want us to hurry. We ask him if there's a way for us to buy tickets to do the island tour in the morning. "Claro. I also arrange those tours." Peruvians and their multi tasking ways. Love it. He takes us over to his office to buy tickets. He also tells us he'll come by the campsite in the am to pick us up. Fabulous. Transportation did wind up being a little costly, but he was awesome....and in Peru, costly is like $10 a person. So we were set. We were ready to go to a desolate beach and camp.
Oswaldo drove us back to the beach so we could camp. We enter the reserve and the guard post is pretty much the last thing you see. Then it is just sand, some water, and maybe a boat or 2 for miles. He drives us down to where we should camp, near another guard house and asks if we want to stop now or drive on to lagunillas. Lagunillas is supposed to be a little port of a town on the reserve where theres a few restaurants. Well I guess my head is still not Peru ready, b ecause when reading about it, it sounds like this little tourist escape. A spot that tourists frequent to eat and hang. Ummmm no. That is far from it. There are literally 3-4 little seafood shacks that obviously are there to feed the fisherman and cab drivers. Not a spot where you'd find a tourist anywhere. So after originally departing in lagunillas and saying goodbye to oswaldo we begin our trek back towards our campsite. We thought about maybe hanging there for a second but people kept wanting to helps us with our bags and were asking if we were camping. It was odd. So we just left.
Setting up camp was a little interesting to say the least. There are super crazy winds in the afternoon so that probably says enough on it's own. To further that I couldn't get the stakes to hold in the sand at all. Not something I had considered when we originally talked about camping on the beach. Luckily 1. My tent is freestanding and 2. There were lots of rocks of different sizes laying around.
Even though we could have just set up the tents with one of our packs inside if it and it would have been fine, we wanted the fly for insulation. The sun was up and I was already getting cold; there was no telling what it would be like at 2 am. So we placed the tent over and kept it down via rocks. The pictures are hysterical. But it worked.
That night neither of us slept well. The beach was deserted. So we shouldn't have heard anything, but thats the creepy thing about deserted areas: if you do hear something, you're just that more freaked out. The ocean and wind were bad enough, but then I heard cars quite a bit which made me uneasy seeing as the reserve was supposed to close down and be totally secure by 7 pm. Plus we saw some flashlight, which were probably just the fisherman down the way, but still, nome of this amounted to a ton of sleep. When we both got up the next morning we had already made the decision without saying a word to each other that we would be staying in a hostel that night.
~la gringuita
So we get into paracas and first thing, buy departure tickets. No reason to wait and we are already at the station. Plus depending on the time that the bus leaves will affect our days. We have to catch the bus in the morning ( we were hoping for a very early afternoon like 1...oh well) at 11 on Tuesday. So now it has been settled. We have to do the islands tour on Monday morning. They don't get back until sometime after 10 and that would possibly make the bus ride a little rush...besides....what else are we gonna do. So tickets purchased, off we walk towards the reserve. We figure we will walk to town, grab a bite to eat (Ceviche!!!), grab some food for camp, and then walk to the reserve. Were nearing town and decide to stop into a tourist info booth to ask about the reserve and possibly grab a map. Oh and ask about an ATM. We have mentioned camping to a few people and had gotten mixed info. "oh it's beautiful and safe" "it's very dangerous" " the beat place to camp is right in town, not on the reserva" " no one camps on the reserva" but both of our books said it was a great experience and that it was secure. So the woman at the booth said she wasn't sure but she didn't think camping was allowed. And she didn't have a map we could take but we just stayed on this road to get there but it was very far like 3km....wait that's not even 2 miles .... Oh well be fine. No sense in paying for a cab. She points us towards an ATM as well. We walk through town and after some questionable food decide to go the ATM and then just walk to the reserve to find out what's going on. We didn't want to buy a bunch of food and then get all the way down there to find out that we can't camp.
The first ATM building is closed, so we inquire about another. They point us further down the road to hotel paracas. Off we go. We walk down this side road for a bit, and we come across this barricaded white stone structure: hotel paracas. What the?? Where's the ATM?? So I walk inside the gate and head towards the three guards in front of the front door. All I have to say is disculpa and the one younger guard says in perfect English ATM? Awesome. It is that obvious we are so not guests. He leads us to there "business center" outfitted with computers, fax and copy machines, and free coffee. Oh and an ATM machine in the corner. Meg and I both use it and are just finishing up when the guy comes back in as if he was making sure we weren't helping ourselves to the coffee :) which I did consider. We thank him and leave. On our way out we stop at the other guards box and make sure we are going the right way. Oh yea just stay on this road for about another 3km and you'll see it. Wait .... 3km?? I swear weve already walked one or two ... Peruvians And their lack of sense of time and distance.
So after what seems like forever we arrive at the backside of the guard station. The guys comes out and we talk to him for a bit. He says it's totally straight to camp and that there is a safe spot about 10km in. Seriously??! I'm so not walking that. We ask about cabs coming in and out. He offers to call us one that can take us back to town for food and then will take us to the beach. Thus we meet oswaldo.
Oswaldo was awesome. And hysterical just like every other Peruvian we have met. He takes us to a little hut of a shop to grab groceries. We go in and are trying to hurry because we don't want to make home wait too long. We pay and rush out to find the car empty. We look around. Oh there's oswaldo in the store watching the soccer game. When he notices us he jumps up and rushes back. Guess he didnt expect or probably want us to hurry. We ask him if there's a way for us to buy tickets to do the island tour in the morning. "Claro. I also arrange those tours." Peruvians and their multi tasking ways. Love it. He takes us over to his office to buy tickets. He also tells us he'll come by the campsite in the am to pick us up. Fabulous. Transportation did wind up being a little costly, but he was awesome....and in Peru, costly is like $10 a person. So we were set. We were ready to go to a desolate beach and camp.
Oswaldo drove us back to the beach so we could camp. We enter the reserve and the guard post is pretty much the last thing you see. Then it is just sand, some water, and maybe a boat or 2 for miles. He drives us down to where we should camp, near another guard house and asks if we want to stop now or drive on to lagunillas. Lagunillas is supposed to be a little port of a town on the reserve where theres a few restaurants. Well I guess my head is still not Peru ready, b ecause when reading about it, it sounds like this little tourist escape. A spot that tourists frequent to eat and hang. Ummmm no. That is far from it. There are literally 3-4 little seafood shacks that obviously are there to feed the fisherman and cab drivers. Not a spot where you'd find a tourist anywhere. So after originally departing in lagunillas and saying goodbye to oswaldo we begin our trek back towards our campsite. We thought about maybe hanging there for a second but people kept wanting to helps us with our bags and were asking if we were camping. It was odd. So we just left.
Setting up camp was a little interesting to say the least. There are super crazy winds in the afternoon so that probably says enough on it's own. To further that I couldn't get the stakes to hold in the sand at all. Not something I had considered when we originally talked about camping on the beach. Luckily 1. My tent is freestanding and 2. There were lots of rocks of different sizes laying around.
Even though we could have just set up the tents with one of our packs inside if it and it would have been fine, we wanted the fly for insulation. The sun was up and I was already getting cold; there was no telling what it would be like at 2 am. So we placed the tent over and kept it down via rocks. The pictures are hysterical. But it worked.
That night neither of us slept well. The beach was deserted. So we shouldn't have heard anything, but thats the creepy thing about deserted areas: if you do hear something, you're just that more freaked out. The ocean and wind were bad enough, but then I heard cars quite a bit which made me uneasy seeing as the reserve was supposed to close down and be totally secure by 7 pm. Plus we saw some flashlight, which were probably just the fisherman down the way, but still, nome of this amounted to a ton of sleep. When we both got up the next morning we had already made the decision without saying a word to each other that we would be staying in a hostel that night.
~la gringuita
Thursday, July 14, 2011
Dune buggies: more fun than a roller coaster / Sandboarding: way harder than snowboarding
So the following morning in huacachina, Megs and I decided to go for the buggy tour. It was kind of expensive for us, but it was something that everyone had been telling me I had to do. Plus I had been looking into trying my hand at sandboarding. And unless I wanted to walk up these dunes, which when you see the photos you will understand why I did not, the only option was the buggy.
What cracked me up was our hostel dudes lax attitude towards arrival and departure at his hostel. it was great. After breakfast we left to return to the room to pack up our things. Check out was at noon, so we were going to need to have our things out and stored before the buggy ride ... Or so we thought. We come out of the room with our packs on our backs and the guy is shouting at us. "the buggy's waiting. Get in the buggy." plus mind you he is speaking in English but with a very strong accent, so every time he says buggy it actually sounds like boogy, which makes me chuckle. So anyhow we lug our packs explaining we just want to check out and he responds with "no no you don't need to check out. I just want you to pay me and get in the buggy. Keep the room. You come back and shower, feel clean. Just get in the buggy". Ok so it doesn't sound that funny on paper but really it was quite hysterical.
So in the buggy you have our driver smiley and his tío, 2french girls and this other dude who was rather quiet the whole time. Smiley was an absolute trip. In buggies you are supposed to have a harness seatbelt, almost like a kid has on his cArseat And it's very important you wear them because otherwise you may fly out. Oh but not smiley. Oh no he's a professional. So were going over these insane dunes and he would floor it before a very steep one and then just laugh at us as we laughed and screamed. Apparently his uncle kept telling him that he was going to fast. :) it kind of reminded me of a roller coaster but I'm not a huge fAn of roller coasters and I think I have realized why. In a buggy you are bouncing all over the place at high speeds ready to fly out of your seat but you're grounded and there is someone there comtrolling it. Its like I gunk that a rolercoaster is going to lose sense of the rail and fly off. But yes if you ever are in the ica area, most definitely do the buggies.
Sandboarding although fun was quite difficult. Originally we just went on our stomachs which was like sledding. Then I tried swapping to feet. At first it seemed like snowboarding, but sand has a different consistency than snow and it adds an interesting twist. Sand is soft but heavy. So if you try to carve at all the board will dig in slightly but he weight of the sand will slow it down and pretty much stop it. Plus we were really just riding on waxed pieces of plywood with Velcro for straps, so that didn't help either. I went down a couple of times, and then wiped out...hard. My neck had whiplash soreness for days after popping back so hard. I got up and tried again but was still a bit woozy and fell on my face again, not as Badly as before but still not in an exactly graceful manner. At this point I was done. likely it was our last run. I got back in the buggy, bounced back to the lagoon, and found sand in everything for days.
What cracked me up was our hostel dudes lax attitude towards arrival and departure at his hostel. it was great. After breakfast we left to return to the room to pack up our things. Check out was at noon, so we were going to need to have our things out and stored before the buggy ride ... Or so we thought. We come out of the room with our packs on our backs and the guy is shouting at us. "the buggy's waiting. Get in the buggy." plus mind you he is speaking in English but with a very strong accent, so every time he says buggy it actually sounds like boogy, which makes me chuckle. So anyhow we lug our packs explaining we just want to check out and he responds with "no no you don't need to check out. I just want you to pay me and get in the buggy. Keep the room. You come back and shower, feel clean. Just get in the buggy". Ok so it doesn't sound that funny on paper but really it was quite hysterical.
So in the buggy you have our driver smiley and his tío, 2french girls and this other dude who was rather quiet the whole time. Smiley was an absolute trip. In buggies you are supposed to have a harness seatbelt, almost like a kid has on his cArseat And it's very important you wear them because otherwise you may fly out. Oh but not smiley. Oh no he's a professional. So were going over these insane dunes and he would floor it before a very steep one and then just laugh at us as we laughed and screamed. Apparently his uncle kept telling him that he was going to fast. :) it kind of reminded me of a roller coaster but I'm not a huge fAn of roller coasters and I think I have realized why. In a buggy you are bouncing all over the place at high speeds ready to fly out of your seat but you're grounded and there is someone there comtrolling it. Its like I gunk that a rolercoaster is going to lose sense of the rail and fly off. But yes if you ever are in the ica area, most definitely do the buggies.
Sandboarding although fun was quite difficult. Originally we just went on our stomachs which was like sledding. Then I tried swapping to feet. At first it seemed like snowboarding, but sand has a different consistency than snow and it adds an interesting twist. Sand is soft but heavy. So if you try to carve at all the board will dig in slightly but he weight of the sand will slow it down and pretty much stop it. Plus we were really just riding on waxed pieces of plywood with Velcro for straps, so that didn't help either. I went down a couple of times, and then wiped out...hard. My neck had whiplash soreness for days after popping back so hard. I got up and tried again but was still a bit woozy and fell on my face again, not as Badly as before but still not in an exactly graceful manner. At this point I was done. likely it was our last run. I got back in the buggy, bounced back to the lagoon, and found sand in everything for days.
Wednesday, July 13, 2011
Berto y las bodegas: la aventura sigue
So after checking in at the hostel in huacachina, we spent the morning with Sian getting coffee, wandering around and getting to know each other. The director at the hostel offered both vineyard and buggy/sandboarding tours so we were all kind of debating that. Upon inquiry we learned that the bodega tours can be done whenever and usually take around 4 hours. The buggys were set times and run 3 times a day. We decided to start off with the vineyard tour and then move to the buggies after. So we pay the guy and tell him well be back about 1:30. When we arrive back there was berto our fearless wine tour dude ready to roll. Oh berto...I really do wish I had a video of you. Words just don't give you the same effect.
1st let's start by saying that I think berto was actually meant to be paparazzi or has had a life long dream of this. Everywhere we went he wanted to take photos of us. He would even throw us into candids. It was a riot. None of us could keep from laughing. So the first bodega we went to was "el museo". It was this smAller style bodega with just a bunch of random shit. There were telephones and random weird instruments. It was like walking through an antique sore that just happened to make wine. All of perus wines are also VERY VERY sweet. He kept wanting to give us more tastes at this place and we all just kept thinking that it was too sweet to drink a bunch of. Apparently, according to the guy at the second bodega, the wine is sweet due to all of the sun. He grapes become almost overly ripe and produce a ton of natural sugar. Now if we had gone to one of the machine produced bodegas, we would have found what I consider more standard style wines. But these were the artisans. They didn't take any shortcuts. At the second bodega, a guy who worked there gave us the tour. He showed us the old setup where they still mash the grapes with their feet (sAnitized of course and while drinking something similar to red bull b/c it's done at night). And where it is filtered and how pisco (perus version of tequila) is separated. After the tour we went though the tasting and here they also make chocolates and jams with their grapes. That was my favorite part. Their chocolates were to die for. We ended at a 3rd bodega where we only tasted a few and left. Though I couldn't bring myself to buy any of the wines, I did buy a couple of bottles of pisco. Well have to try making some pisco sours when I return :)
1st let's start by saying that I think berto was actually meant to be paparazzi or has had a life long dream of this. Everywhere we went he wanted to take photos of us. He would even throw us into candids. It was a riot. None of us could keep from laughing. So the first bodega we went to was "el museo". It was this smAller style bodega with just a bunch of random shit. There were telephones and random weird instruments. It was like walking through an antique sore that just happened to make wine. All of perus wines are also VERY VERY sweet. He kept wanting to give us more tastes at this place and we all just kept thinking that it was too sweet to drink a bunch of. Apparently, according to the guy at the second bodega, the wine is sweet due to all of the sun. He grapes become almost overly ripe and produce a ton of natural sugar. Now if we had gone to one of the machine produced bodegas, we would have found what I consider more standard style wines. But these were the artisans. They didn't take any shortcuts. At the second bodega, a guy who worked there gave us the tour. He showed us the old setup where they still mash the grapes with their feet (sAnitized of course and while drinking something similar to red bull b/c it's done at night). And where it is filtered and how pisco (perus version of tequila) is separated. After the tour we went though the tasting and here they also make chocolates and jams with their grapes. That was my favorite part. Their chocolates were to die for. We ended at a 3rd bodega where we only tasted a few and left. Though I couldn't bring myself to buy any of the wines, I did buy a couple of bottles of pisco. Well have to try making some pisco sours when I return :)
Ica/huacachina: bodegas, buggies, a brit and a whole lotta sand
So off we went to ica. What was in ica, we weren't too sure. Though we knew it was close to huacachina which is pretty much a lagoon town surrounded by sand dunes. Oh and ica is known for it's wineries. Sounds good enough for us. So sitting behind and across the aisle was a girl probably in her mid-20s. We talked for a short moment on the bus, but seeing as it was an overnight expedition, it ended as quickly as it had begun. The trip was decent enough. They tried to feed us again; though the meal was a questionable meat-infested disaster. We arrive in ica, which is like the size of a quarter that morning about 9. Getting off the English girl from earlier asks where we are headed. When we realize that we are all heading the same direction, we split a cab in order to save funds. Awesome! We part ways (initially) in huacachina. Sian (pronounced Sean) headed towards a hostel and Megs and I went to scout out a place where we though we could camp.
We have been wanting to camp and we read that there were a couple of hostels with attached campgrounds in huacAchina. Cool enough, thinking that I won't have lugged this tent around for nothing. We had read about one called the huacachinero. We had passed it on our way, so Megs and I backtracked down the road to find it. Upon arrival, it looked way too nice. Perhaps it's just the outside appearance or maybe they just have a campground round back?? Were trying to stay optimistic here. I went in and asked at the reservation desk. The lady pretty much laughed in my face and said no. Isnt there a Chinese proverb that goes something along the lines of "one who asks a stupid question is a fool for 5 minutes, one who does not is a fool forever" ? Maybe someone should teach her that. Anyway, a couple doors down there is a place that advertises camping. So we roll in just to check it out.
Upon arrival, the guy was struggling to open the front gate. An older passerby actually had to climb over the gate in order to break it open. This should have been the first sign that it was a bad idea. He leads us inside and kind of rushes us out back. I think the front door still had his panties in a twist. We walk up to where he says there is camping and it's in the middle of this shit hole. I mean not actually shit, but just junk EVERYWHERE. No other tents and hardly any flat land on which you could even pitch a tent. What the!?? So Meg drops her pack in hopes to find a quick bathroom. We've already talked about how we may want to reconsider where we are staying. About maybe 1 minute Later meg returns with a quick step, throws her pack on her back, looks at me and says that was gross. The floor was covered in mus and...well I couldn't even bring myself to use the it if that gives you any idea of how bad it is. So that was that. We walk back inside and I tell the guy were going to talk over breakfast and well let him know. 15 soles for the "campsite" for the night. He's not happy that we are leaving. And actually the anger that showed in his face just added to the reasons as to why we wouldn't be staying there.
Walking back down the road, We come to the agreement that we should just stay at a hostel b/c if nothing else the sand dunes would make it difficult to find a flat surface in general. Suddenly we see sian. She had popped her head out of the courtyard of a hostel and invited us to share a room with her. It was going to be more expensive than the campsite, but really...there was no way we were going back there. So there we were, in the middle of sand dunes about to share a room with a girl we had known for all of 20 minutes. Sounds pretty killer if you ask me :)
I think that is one thing I have learned to love on this expedition. So many others travelers roam solo or with just a partner, and for the most part, they love meeting others. Its a very open and inviting community. For example, last night, the frenchies from my dorm invited me in there broken English to dinner with them. They didn't know my name, barely spoke any English or Spanish, but figured they should invite me because ... Well ... Why wouldnt you? I love the bond that the nomad community has.
We have been wanting to camp and we read that there were a couple of hostels with attached campgrounds in huacAchina. Cool enough, thinking that I won't have lugged this tent around for nothing. We had read about one called the huacachinero. We had passed it on our way, so Megs and I backtracked down the road to find it. Upon arrival, it looked way too nice. Perhaps it's just the outside appearance or maybe they just have a campground round back?? Were trying to stay optimistic here. I went in and asked at the reservation desk. The lady pretty much laughed in my face and said no. Isnt there a Chinese proverb that goes something along the lines of "one who asks a stupid question is a fool for 5 minutes, one who does not is a fool forever" ? Maybe someone should teach her that. Anyway, a couple doors down there is a place that advertises camping. So we roll in just to check it out.
Upon arrival, the guy was struggling to open the front gate. An older passerby actually had to climb over the gate in order to break it open. This should have been the first sign that it was a bad idea. He leads us inside and kind of rushes us out back. I think the front door still had his panties in a twist. We walk up to where he says there is camping and it's in the middle of this shit hole. I mean not actually shit, but just junk EVERYWHERE. No other tents and hardly any flat land on which you could even pitch a tent. What the!?? So Meg drops her pack in hopes to find a quick bathroom. We've already talked about how we may want to reconsider where we are staying. About maybe 1 minute Later meg returns with a quick step, throws her pack on her back, looks at me and says that was gross. The floor was covered in mus and...well I couldn't even bring myself to use the it if that gives you any idea of how bad it is. So that was that. We walk back inside and I tell the guy were going to talk over breakfast and well let him know. 15 soles for the "campsite" for the night. He's not happy that we are leaving. And actually the anger that showed in his face just added to the reasons as to why we wouldn't be staying there.
Walking back down the road, We come to the agreement that we should just stay at a hostel b/c if nothing else the sand dunes would make it difficult to find a flat surface in general. Suddenly we see sian. She had popped her head out of the courtyard of a hostel and invited us to share a room with her. It was going to be more expensive than the campsite, but really...there was no way we were going back there. So there we were, in the middle of sand dunes about to share a room with a girl we had known for all of 20 minutes. Sounds pretty killer if you ask me :)
I think that is one thing I have learned to love on this expedition. So many others travelers roam solo or with just a partner, and for the most part, they love meeting others. Its a very open and inviting community. For example, last night, the frenchies from my dorm invited me in there broken English to dinner with them. They didn't know my name, barely spoke any English or Spanish, but figured they should invite me because ... Well ... Why wouldnt you? I love the bond that the nomad community has.
La compañía de bus Flores: nunca más
So after our adventure to colca canyon, we stayed one more night in Arequipa. La doña, though I think a little confused, was happy to have us back. We had booked a night bus to ica that left at 6:30 , so we spent the day wandering and holing up places to use their wi-fi.
About 5:30 we head back to the hostel to grab our packs and catch a taxi to the Flores private bus station. That in itself should have told us it was a bad idea. Upon arrival I show the woman our tickets and ask her if we need to check our bags at all. She looks at me as if I'm not right and says no we just wait and watch for our bus. So we sit directly in front of the window where we can see all of them come in. They call for buses over the PA, but it's somewhat sporadic to say the least. And it seems like the bulk of them are late. They would constantly be calling a bus 15 minutes behind. So we are sitting watching for buses and it's almost 6:30 now. Not a single bus that says ica on the front and not a single announcement for ica or for a 6:30 bus. Finally at about 6:50 I go back to the lady to inquire where our bus is. "se fue" she says with kind of a why-the-f-are-u-bugging-me-again look. I'm shocked and start to argue with her and ask her why we didn't hear it or why we didn't see it. We've been sitting there for the past hour watching for it and none of them said ica. Oh because the bus is actually to lim, it just makes a stop in ica. when I, in a kind of frustrated and rude manner, asked her how I was supposed to know that when it says ica on the tickets, she quickly just jumped to having a solution for us. We could pay 5 more soles and she would adjust the ticket so we could leave shortly. At this point it's 7 and she begins filling out a bus ticket for 6:50. What?? I point it out and she just keeps reassuring me that it hasn't arrived. I take my tickets and sit down, now a flipping 10 soles poorer.
We are supposed to be looking for busses that go to Lima and are arriving from puno. We don't see any for a while. When we finally spot one at 7:20, but with the wrong te on the window, I go back to counter and ask if that is the correct bus. No. We sit there until about 7:30/40, and I finally look at Megs and tell her that we need to go catch a different bus. This is ridiculous; they don't know whats going on, most of their busses are late, and if we don't move soon, we are going to miss any chance we have of getting to ica that night.
Packs back on, unused tickets shoved in our pockets, we hail a cab down the street to the bus station to buy new tickets at Cruz del sur. They'll make sure you don't miss your bus If you're waiting right there for it.
We get there and purchase 2 fresh tickets. 65 soles a piece. So now in order to get to ica we have spent a total of 110 soles a piece. Fantastic!
The bus that we got tickets for doesnt leave until 9:30. It's 7:30. So what do we do? We go in search of food of course!! This trip has consisted of bus rides, wandering aimlessly and a lot of eating. So we hobble down to this little restaurant hidden in a bit of a nook of the bus station. We notice they have sandwiches and beer. Thats good enough for us. We order 2 beers from a girl and she asks of we'd like bottles or cans. She can't be more than 18. We tell her cans are fine and she runs off, Out towards the bus station without a word, her 4 year old daughter/sister/random vagrant trailing behind her. She returns about 5 minutes later. She holds up 2 different cans "¿cristal o cusqueña?". She puts down The can of cusqueña in front of Megs. Please dont tell me she has to run off to Get my beer. Oh no; the kid comes from behind her and puts the can face down in front of me. Gotta love the 5 yr old bartender.
We finished our beers and sandwiches, paid our tab, and headed to check in with Cruz del sur. They put us in a wait room and came around to let us know the bus had arrived. On the bus, seats reclined, ready to sleep through the night, off we went on our way to ica.
About 5:30 we head back to the hostel to grab our packs and catch a taxi to the Flores private bus station. That in itself should have told us it was a bad idea. Upon arrival I show the woman our tickets and ask her if we need to check our bags at all. She looks at me as if I'm not right and says no we just wait and watch for our bus. So we sit directly in front of the window where we can see all of them come in. They call for buses over the PA, but it's somewhat sporadic to say the least. And it seems like the bulk of them are late. They would constantly be calling a bus 15 minutes behind. So we are sitting watching for buses and it's almost 6:30 now. Not a single bus that says ica on the front and not a single announcement for ica or for a 6:30 bus. Finally at about 6:50 I go back to the lady to inquire where our bus is. "se fue" she says with kind of a why-the-f-are-u-bugging-me-again look. I'm shocked and start to argue with her and ask her why we didn't hear it or why we didn't see it. We've been sitting there for the past hour watching for it and none of them said ica. Oh because the bus is actually to lim, it just makes a stop in ica. when I, in a kind of frustrated and rude manner, asked her how I was supposed to know that when it says ica on the tickets, she quickly just jumped to having a solution for us. We could pay 5 more soles and she would adjust the ticket so we could leave shortly. At this point it's 7 and she begins filling out a bus ticket for 6:50. What?? I point it out and she just keeps reassuring me that it hasn't arrived. I take my tickets and sit down, now a flipping 10 soles poorer.
We are supposed to be looking for busses that go to Lima and are arriving from puno. We don't see any for a while. When we finally spot one at 7:20, but with the wrong te on the window, I go back to counter and ask if that is the correct bus. No. We sit there until about 7:30/40, and I finally look at Megs and tell her that we need to go catch a different bus. This is ridiculous; they don't know whats going on, most of their busses are late, and if we don't move soon, we are going to miss any chance we have of getting to ica that night.
Packs back on, unused tickets shoved in our pockets, we hail a cab down the street to the bus station to buy new tickets at Cruz del sur. They'll make sure you don't miss your bus If you're waiting right there for it.
We get there and purchase 2 fresh tickets. 65 soles a piece. So now in order to get to ica we have spent a total of 110 soles a piece. Fantastic!
The bus that we got tickets for doesnt leave until 9:30. It's 7:30. So what do we do? We go in search of food of course!! This trip has consisted of bus rides, wandering aimlessly and a lot of eating. So we hobble down to this little restaurant hidden in a bit of a nook of the bus station. We notice they have sandwiches and beer. Thats good enough for us. We order 2 beers from a girl and she asks of we'd like bottles or cans. She can't be more than 18. We tell her cans are fine and she runs off, Out towards the bus station without a word, her 4 year old daughter/sister/random vagrant trailing behind her. She returns about 5 minutes later. She holds up 2 different cans "¿cristal o cusqueña?". She puts down The can of cusqueña in front of Megs. Please dont tell me she has to run off to Get my beer. Oh no; the kid comes from behind her and puts the can face down in front of me. Gotta love the 5 yr old bartender.
We finished our beers and sandwiches, paid our tab, and headed to check in with Cruz del sur. They put us in a wait room and came around to let us know the bus had arrived. On the bus, seats reclined, ready to sleep through the night, off we went on our way to ica.
Sunday, July 10, 2011
Colca canyon: el razón que Megs no irá otro paseo nunca más :)
So the original thought was go to Arequipa so that we could get out and hike in colca canyon, the 2nd deepest canyon in the world. We figured we could just catch a bus to the canyon, hike down, camp, hike back out the next morning, and catch a bus back to Arequipa. Sounds easy enough,, right??
María la doña actually got us what we thought was a really good deal. She knew someone that ran a colectivo to the canyon. Awesome! BUT it will arrive between 3 and 3:30 in the morning. Yikes! But it's all good. It's about a 5-6 hour ride to the canyon and a 3 hour hike; so it would give us time to get down, set up base, and play around. We were down. We get our packs together that night, eat an early dinner complete with wine to help us pass out early, and are in bed by 8:30. We are both up by 2:40 and ready when the bus arrives at 3:10. On our way.
We make a few more stops and the van is now full with 12 foreigners. When everyone is settled in, the woman in chArge calls our attention to explain a few things. Turns out were on a tour van but we are "solo transporta". She keeps saying this as if we are going to forget. We also stop for breakfast which was not expected, but gladly accepted.
We arrive at cruz del cóndor at about 8:45. We quietly bid farewell to our tour group, load our packs on our backs and off we head on the only marked trail. Starting off we are questioning the trail because it seems like it is going up for one, and it seems like it's just following the road. But Meg continues saying that it's a well marked trail and this is the only trail; so I'm in total agreement. About an hour in we look a ways down the path. Were in the desert and a little elevated, so its clear where it goes. There's a parking lot ... and that is where it ends. Crap!! You've got to be kidding me. I've lugged this heavy-ass pack around for the past hour going nowhere?? Alright time to turn around.
We backtrack to the Cruz. On the way we bump into a samll group with a local who seems like he may be the guide. Meghan goes up to him to inquire about the descent trail. He gives us his map and shows us where we need to be going. Right on. Map in hand and we are good to go! Or so we thought...
According to the map, we pass the Cruz a little ways and then the trail will be descending down the right. Cool. Pass the Cruz, no trail. We continue along the side of the road, which in Peru is not exactly the safest thing to do here, for about 20-30 minutes. We still can't find this trail. This is ridiculous. we walk back and SCOUR the area for the trail. It doesn't exist. It can't. There's nothing. So now at roughly 12:30 we are tired, hungry, and pissed. We sit up at the Cruz with the intention of grabbing a ride with the next bus/colectivo. We start having lunch and an older Peruvian, very traditional Peruvian, lady yells bus at us. We stand up and look; there's a group of folks standing on the side of the road hailing down this bus. Ummm...it's kind of crowded and another 14 folks are getting on....well just wait. Plus the books made it seem like smaller buses come to collect folks all the time, like they do at machu picchu. I'm still pretty positive that is not the case. The bus leaves and we are literally the only folks at the canyon. There is NO ONE and NOTHINGu around us.
An hour passes. No sign of a car, bus, or anyone. At this point, I've told Meghan if we don't have anyone come by in a bit, we are setting camp in the parking lot.
Luckily a few minutes later another bus comes by. We flag it down, but not in the smooth manner that the locals do it; more just like a couple of crazy gringos stranded on the side of the road. The bus is already full, so we stand towards the back knowing that the ride to chivay is 2 hrs on a dirt road. At this point, I know we looked like we were crazy. We smell, were a wreck, and now we are standing on a bus intending for sitting down. As we drive on, people continue to flag down the bus ( in a much less spastic manner though, mind you ) and they keep letting them on. Everyone keeps standing and in about 40 minutes the aisle is packed.
We get to chivay finally. We book a 4 o'clock bus on "el rey latino" to Arequipa which should put us there around 7. Good deal. We probably won't be able to leave for ica that same night but we were just happy to be heading back to Arequipa.
While we were waiting for our bus a fight broke out. But in all honestly it was actually just quite comical. It was between a teller and another woman. All of a sudden Megs and I hear screaming. We turn around to find the teller with her hand out the window (through the little hole in the bottom where you hand money) grabbing at the other woman's hair and cursing at her in Spanish. Someone calls policía who comes over but has this expression of "you gotta be kidding me. I can't use my gun here".
I think it's time to wait outside.
-la gringuita
María la doña actually got us what we thought was a really good deal. She knew someone that ran a colectivo to the canyon. Awesome! BUT it will arrive between 3 and 3:30 in the morning. Yikes! But it's all good. It's about a 5-6 hour ride to the canyon and a 3 hour hike; so it would give us time to get down, set up base, and play around. We were down. We get our packs together that night, eat an early dinner complete with wine to help us pass out early, and are in bed by 8:30. We are both up by 2:40 and ready when the bus arrives at 3:10. On our way.
We make a few more stops and the van is now full with 12 foreigners. When everyone is settled in, the woman in chArge calls our attention to explain a few things. Turns out were on a tour van but we are "solo transporta". She keeps saying this as if we are going to forget. We also stop for breakfast which was not expected, but gladly accepted.
We arrive at cruz del cóndor at about 8:45. We quietly bid farewell to our tour group, load our packs on our backs and off we head on the only marked trail. Starting off we are questioning the trail because it seems like it is going up for one, and it seems like it's just following the road. But Meg continues saying that it's a well marked trail and this is the only trail; so I'm in total agreement. About an hour in we look a ways down the path. Were in the desert and a little elevated, so its clear where it goes. There's a parking lot ... and that is where it ends. Crap!! You've got to be kidding me. I've lugged this heavy-ass pack around for the past hour going nowhere?? Alright time to turn around.
We backtrack to the Cruz. On the way we bump into a samll group with a local who seems like he may be the guide. Meghan goes up to him to inquire about the descent trail. He gives us his map and shows us where we need to be going. Right on. Map in hand and we are good to go! Or so we thought...
According to the map, we pass the Cruz a little ways and then the trail will be descending down the right. Cool. Pass the Cruz, no trail. We continue along the side of the road, which in Peru is not exactly the safest thing to do here, for about 20-30 minutes. We still can't find this trail. This is ridiculous. we walk back and SCOUR the area for the trail. It doesn't exist. It can't. There's nothing. So now at roughly 12:30 we are tired, hungry, and pissed. We sit up at the Cruz with the intention of grabbing a ride with the next bus/colectivo. We start having lunch and an older Peruvian, very traditional Peruvian, lady yells bus at us. We stand up and look; there's a group of folks standing on the side of the road hailing down this bus. Ummm...it's kind of crowded and another 14 folks are getting on....well just wait. Plus the books made it seem like smaller buses come to collect folks all the time, like they do at machu picchu. I'm still pretty positive that is not the case. The bus leaves and we are literally the only folks at the canyon. There is NO ONE and NOTHINGu around us.
An hour passes. No sign of a car, bus, or anyone. At this point, I've told Meghan if we don't have anyone come by in a bit, we are setting camp in the parking lot.
Luckily a few minutes later another bus comes by. We flag it down, but not in the smooth manner that the locals do it; more just like a couple of crazy gringos stranded on the side of the road. The bus is already full, so we stand towards the back knowing that the ride to chivay is 2 hrs on a dirt road. At this point, I know we looked like we were crazy. We smell, were a wreck, and now we are standing on a bus intending for sitting down. As we drive on, people continue to flag down the bus ( in a much less spastic manner though, mind you ) and they keep letting them on. Everyone keeps standing and in about 40 minutes the aisle is packed.
We get to chivay finally. We book a 4 o'clock bus on "el rey latino" to Arequipa which should put us there around 7. Good deal. We probably won't be able to leave for ica that same night but we were just happy to be heading back to Arequipa.
While we were waiting for our bus a fight broke out. But in all honestly it was actually just quite comical. It was between a teller and another woman. All of a sudden Megs and I hear screaming. We turn around to find the teller with her hand out the window (through the little hole in the bottom where you hand money) grabbing at the other woman's hair and cursing at her in Spanish. Someone calls policía who comes over but has this expression of "you gotta be kidding me. I can't use my gun here".
I think it's time to wait outside.
-la gringuita
Arequipa: la ciudad que nos ayuda lo más
We arrived to Arequipa monday evening, tired, hungry, and very cranky. As we got off the bus at the terminal the Brits asked us where we were staying. When we told them we weren't sure; we still had to find a hostel. They looked at us in a very puzzled manner and wished us luck. So ends our ride with the Brits....or so we thought.
The taxi situation is a little interesting in Arequipa. I suppose in the past, they have had issues with it. So the police are all outside , watching the cab drivers and talking to them occasionally. We go to get in the cab and the police is talking to the driver. She takes down some info and tells us to get in. I've noticed throughout the city that they pride themselves I their tourism and keeping their tourists safe; so I suppose it's just one more method of them keeping us safe. Right on.
So as I have said earlier, crepes/panqueques are big here. And of course Meg and I have located the panquequería in town. We throw our packs to the side and sit down, ready for some dinner panqueques. As good as they were, they weren't that filling. But that's alright because they have desert crepes :) after one of those each, we just want a bed. I had found a hostel with dorm rooms for only 15 soles a night, so we head in that direction. I know the address and according to "the moon" there was another inn right beside it. So we head towards that hotel and figure well just find it along the way. We found the other hotel, and a llama chilling in the park, but no Posada de Virrey. The bellhop from the other hotel stops us and asks us where we are trying to go. Turns out we are at 101 bolognesi and we want 103 puente Grau... We are actually in the 500 block, not the 100. Well crap. Guess well start walking. The bellhop was impressed with my Spanish though :)
We finally make it to the hostel and check into our dorm. It seems nice enough, especially for $5 a night. La doña is a little pushy but in a helpful way. AND there's HOT WATER!!! that's a huge rarity in Peru. Up to this point I had attempted to take 2 showers, both of which were cold rinses. So when I figured out the shower and actually got hot water ..... Oh you can't even believe how great that felt. Plus we were sharing the dorm with another guy from Oregon, Nathan, and he filed us in on where to do our laundry. Laundry and hot water?? I must be dreaming.
The next morning we head out, laundry in tow, ready for clean clothes and coffee. Oh clean clothes, it will be such a treat. 1st time the whole trip! We drop them off with this sweet little lady who has her kids playing in the back. 5 kilos of clothing...15 soles. No worries. Well be back at 5.
We walk towards la plaza de armas. Arequipa is shockingly a very clean city and their is a lack of ferrel dogs and cats, which is a kind of a nice change. Their plaza de armas definitely benefits from the tourism. The volcanoes and mountains provide the background for the plazas and restaurants flood the second floor balconies of the buildings surrounding the plaza. We had breakfast and proved to be the ultimate tourists by taking some photos of the mtn surrounded cathedral.
What I haven't seen in other cities but I found here was when shopping, they follow you. And when I say follow, I don't mean move from room to room as you move, I mean on your ass with every move ... Almost as if I stopped quick, they would bump into me. I suppose it's there anti-theft method, but instead it just caused Megs and I to leave. I don't like the hovering feeling.
Anotare thing which i really enjoy is the amount of NGOs in Peru. A few times I have found cafés who actually give 100% of their profits to their sister organization. They usually deal with public health issues and abuse towards woman and children. We have been making it a point to support them whenever we can. I'd very much like to return to Peru and volunteer with some of these organizations ... I've been taking notes :)
So the final amusing thing that happened in Arequipa. We thought we had spotted the Brits when we were having breakfast. But we werent entirely sure. However it was one of those huge double decker busses filled with older tourists so...we were pretty sure. When we went to pick up our laundry, it wasn't quite ready; she was still ironing and folding it ... I mean really lady, have you seen us?? Anyhow, I stood there for a few minute playing barco vs. moto with her son. Suddenly we hear "getting all cleaned up are we?" Meg and I turn around to see 2 of our British friends. We joked with them for a minute. "Have you gotten your manicure a pedicure? Your toes look clean." they were such a trip. Oh the folks you meet when traveling.
-la gringuita
The taxi situation is a little interesting in Arequipa. I suppose in the past, they have had issues with it. So the police are all outside , watching the cab drivers and talking to them occasionally. We go to get in the cab and the police is talking to the driver. She takes down some info and tells us to get in. I've noticed throughout the city that they pride themselves I their tourism and keeping their tourists safe; so I suppose it's just one more method of them keeping us safe. Right on.
So as I have said earlier, crepes/panqueques are big here. And of course Meg and I have located the panquequería in town. We throw our packs to the side and sit down, ready for some dinner panqueques. As good as they were, they weren't that filling. But that's alright because they have desert crepes :) after one of those each, we just want a bed. I had found a hostel with dorm rooms for only 15 soles a night, so we head in that direction. I know the address and according to "the moon" there was another inn right beside it. So we head towards that hotel and figure well just find it along the way. We found the other hotel, and a llama chilling in the park, but no Posada de Virrey. The bellhop from the other hotel stops us and asks us where we are trying to go. Turns out we are at 101 bolognesi and we want 103 puente Grau... We are actually in the 500 block, not the 100. Well crap. Guess well start walking. The bellhop was impressed with my Spanish though :)
We finally make it to the hostel and check into our dorm. It seems nice enough, especially for $5 a night. La doña is a little pushy but in a helpful way. AND there's HOT WATER!!! that's a huge rarity in Peru. Up to this point I had attempted to take 2 showers, both of which were cold rinses. So when I figured out the shower and actually got hot water ..... Oh you can't even believe how great that felt. Plus we were sharing the dorm with another guy from Oregon, Nathan, and he filed us in on where to do our laundry. Laundry and hot water?? I must be dreaming.
The next morning we head out, laundry in tow, ready for clean clothes and coffee. Oh clean clothes, it will be such a treat. 1st time the whole trip! We drop them off with this sweet little lady who has her kids playing in the back. 5 kilos of clothing...15 soles. No worries. Well be back at 5.
We walk towards la plaza de armas. Arequipa is shockingly a very clean city and their is a lack of ferrel dogs and cats, which is a kind of a nice change. Their plaza de armas definitely benefits from the tourism. The volcanoes and mountains provide the background for the plazas and restaurants flood the second floor balconies of the buildings surrounding the plaza. We had breakfast and proved to be the ultimate tourists by taking some photos of the mtn surrounded cathedral.
What I haven't seen in other cities but I found here was when shopping, they follow you. And when I say follow, I don't mean move from room to room as you move, I mean on your ass with every move ... Almost as if I stopped quick, they would bump into me. I suppose it's there anti-theft method, but instead it just caused Megs and I to leave. I don't like the hovering feeling.
Anotare thing which i really enjoy is the amount of NGOs in Peru. A few times I have found cafés who actually give 100% of their profits to their sister organization. They usually deal with public health issues and abuse towards woman and children. We have been making it a point to support them whenever we can. I'd very much like to return to Peru and volunteer with some of these organizations ... I've been taking notes :)
So the final amusing thing that happened in Arequipa. We thought we had spotted the Brits when we were having breakfast. But we werent entirely sure. However it was one of those huge double decker busses filled with older tourists so...we were pretty sure. When we went to pick up our laundry, it wasn't quite ready; she was still ironing and folding it ... I mean really lady, have you seen us?? Anyhow, I stood there for a few minute playing barco vs. moto with her son. Suddenly we hear "getting all cleaned up are we?" Meg and I turn around to see 2 of our British friends. We joked with them for a minute. "Have you gotten your manicure a pedicure? Your toes look clean." they were such a trip. Oh the folks you meet when traveling.
-la gringuita
Arequipa: la ciudad que nos ayuda lo más
We arrived to Arequipa monday evening, tired, hungry, and very cranky. As we got off the bus at the terminal the Brits asked us where we were staying. When we told them we weren't sure; we still had to find a hostel. They looked at us in a very puzzled manner and wished us luck. So ends our ride with the Brits....or so we thought.
The taxi situation is a little interesting in Arequipa. I suppose in the past, they have had issues with it. So the police are all outside , watching the cab drivers and talking to them occasionally. We go to get in the cab and the police is talking to the driver. She takes down some info and tells us to get in. I've noticed throughout the city that they pride themselves I their tourism and keeping their tourists safe; so I suppose it's just one more method of them keeping us safe. Right on.
So as I have said earlier, crepes/panqueques are big here. And of course Meg and I have located the panquequería in town. We throw our packs to the side and sit down, ready for some dinner panqueques. As good as they were, they weren't that filling. But that's alright because they have desert crepes :) after one of those each, we just want a bed. I had found a hostel with dorm rooms for only 15 soles a night, so we head in that direction. I know the address and according to "the moon" there was another inn right beside it. So we head towards that hotel and figure well just find it along the way. We found the other hotel, and a llama chilling in the park, but no Posada de Virrey. The bellhop from the other hotel stops us and asks us where we are trying to go. Turns out we are at 101 bolognesi and we want 103 puente Grau... We are actually in the 500 block, not the 100. Well crap. Guess well start walking. The bellhop was impressed with my Spanish though :)
We finally make it to the hostel and check into our dorm. It seems nice enough, especially for $5 a night. La doña is a little pushy but in a helpful way. AND there's HOT WATER!!! that's a huge rarity in Peru. Up to this point I had attempted to take 2 showers, both of which were cold rinses. So when I figured out the shower and actually got hot water ..... Oh you can't even believe how great that felt. Plus we were sharing the dorm with another guy from Oregon, Nathan, and he filed us in on where to do our laundry. Laundry and hot water?? I must be dreaming.
The next morning we head out, laundry in tow, ready for clean clothes and coffee. Oh clean clothes, it will be such a treat. 1st time the whole trip! We drop them off with this sweet little lady who has her kids playing in the back. 5 kilos of clothing...15 soles. No worries. Well be back at 5.
We walk towards la plaza de armas. Arequipa is shockingly a very clean city and their is a lack of ferrel dogs and cats, which is a kind of a nice change. Their plaza de armas definitely benefits from the tourism. The volcanoes and mountains provide the background for the plazas and restaurants flood the second floor balconies of the buildings surrounding the plaza. We had breakfast and proved to be the ultimate tourists by taking some photos of the mtn surrounded cathedral.
What I haven't seen in other cities but I found here was when shopping, they follow you. And when I say follow, I don't mean move from room to room as you move, I mean on your ass with every move ... Almost as if I stopped quick, they would bump into me. I suppose it's there anti-theft method, but instead it just caused Megs and I to leave. I don't like the hovering feeling.
Anotare thing which i really enjoy is the amount of NGOs in Peru. A few times I have found cafés who actually give 100% of their profits to their sister organization. They usually deal with public health issues and abuse towards woman and children. We have been making it a point to support them whenever we can. I'd very much like to return to Peru and volunteer with some of these organizations ... I've been taking notes :)
So the final amusing thing that happened in Arequipa. We thought we had spotted the Brits when we were having breakfast. But we werent entirely sure. However it was one of those huge double decker busses filled with older tourists so...we were pretty sure. When we went to pick up our laundry, it wasn't quite ready; she was still ironing and folding it ... I mean really lady, have you seen us?? Anyhow, I stood there for a few minute playing barco vs. moto with her son. Suddenly we hear "getting all cleaned up are we?" Meg and I turn around to see 2 of our British friends. We joked with them for a minute. "Have you gotten your manicure a pedicure? Your toes look clean." they were such a trip. Oh the folks you meet when traveling.
-la gringuita
The taxi situation is a little interesting in Arequipa. I suppose in the past, they have had issues with it. So the police are all outside , watching the cab drivers and talking to them occasionally. We go to get in the cab and the police is talking to the driver. She takes down some info and tells us to get in. I've noticed throughout the city that they pride themselves I their tourism and keeping their tourists safe; so I suppose it's just one more method of them keeping us safe. Right on.
So as I have said earlier, crepes/panqueques are big here. And of course Meg and I have located the panquequería in town. We throw our packs to the side and sit down, ready for some dinner panqueques. As good as they were, they weren't that filling. But that's alright because they have desert crepes :) after one of those each, we just want a bed. I had found a hostel with dorm rooms for only 15 soles a night, so we head in that direction. I know the address and according to "the moon" there was another inn right beside it. So we head towards that hotel and figure well just find it along the way. We found the other hotel, and a llama chilling in the park, but no Posada de Virrey. The bellhop from the other hotel stops us and asks us where we are trying to go. Turns out we are at 101 bolognesi and we want 103 puente Grau... We are actually in the 500 block, not the 100. Well crap. Guess well start walking. The bellhop was impressed with my Spanish though :)
We finally make it to the hostel and check into our dorm. It seems nice enough, especially for $5 a night. La doña is a little pushy but in a helpful way. AND there's HOT WATER!!! that's a huge rarity in Peru. Up to this point I had attempted to take 2 showers, both of which were cold rinses. So when I figured out the shower and actually got hot water ..... Oh you can't even believe how great that felt. Plus we were sharing the dorm with another guy from Oregon, Nathan, and he filed us in on where to do our laundry. Laundry and hot water?? I must be dreaming.
The next morning we head out, laundry in tow, ready for clean clothes and coffee. Oh clean clothes, it will be such a treat. 1st time the whole trip! We drop them off with this sweet little lady who has her kids playing in the back. 5 kilos of clothing...15 soles. No worries. Well be back at 5.
We walk towards la plaza de armas. Arequipa is shockingly a very clean city and their is a lack of ferrel dogs and cats, which is a kind of a nice change. Their plaza de armas definitely benefits from the tourism. The volcanoes and mountains provide the background for the plazas and restaurants flood the second floor balconies of the buildings surrounding the plaza. We had breakfast and proved to be the ultimate tourists by taking some photos of the mtn surrounded cathedral.
What I haven't seen in other cities but I found here was when shopping, they follow you. And when I say follow, I don't mean move from room to room as you move, I mean on your ass with every move ... Almost as if I stopped quick, they would bump into me. I suppose it's there anti-theft method, but instead it just caused Megs and I to leave. I don't like the hovering feeling.
Anotare thing which i really enjoy is the amount of NGOs in Peru. A few times I have found cafés who actually give 100% of their profits to their sister organization. They usually deal with public health issues and abuse towards woman and children. We have been making it a point to support them whenever we can. I'd very much like to return to Peru and volunteer with some of these organizations ... I've been taking notes :)
So the final amusing thing that happened in Arequipa. We thought we had spotted the Brits when we were having breakfast. But we werent entirely sure. However it was one of those huge double decker busses filled with older tourists so...we were pretty sure. When we went to pick up our laundry, it wasn't quite ready; she was still ironing and folding it ... I mean really lady, have you seen us?? Anyhow, I stood there for a few minute playing barco vs. moto with her son. Suddenly we hear "getting all cleaned up are we?" Meg and I turn around to see 2 of our British friends. We joked with them for a minute. "Have you gotten your manicure a pedicure? Your toes look clean." they were such a trip. Oh the folks you meet when traveling.
-la gringuita
Saturday, July 9, 2011
El paseo a Arequipa: machu picchu mory, inca eiline, pacachuteq Paul, y Los bebés del jugo
Life on a bus: this time to Arequipa.
After we left machu picchu, rode the bus to Aguas calientes, paid way too much money for dinner, made another doggy friend, took the train to ollantaytambo ( where I made friends with 2 guys from Oregon, rob and Randall), where we caught a colectivo to cusco. I love this combi/collectivo idea. You meet folks, it's inexpensive, more comfortable than a bus, and super convenient. This colectivo took us back to cusco where we were crashing for the night before our day trip to arequipa.
When we arrive at the hostel, la doña, who was super sweet, let's us in and hands us two bottles of water "para lavar Los dientes". She doesn't really explain why except to say that when it rains a lot the water in the city is - and makes a motion with her hands. I've noticed this a bit in Spanish before. And I have determined that it is for 1 of 3 reasons:
1. The words don't exist in Spanish vocabulary and so they just describe it with noises and movements.
2. They figure the gringos won't know that vocabulary.
3. The vocabulary is there but it's uncommon slang.
I'm thinking número uno.
Well apparently this waving motion meant that there was no water. We got upstairs, and go to consider a shower and all we get is 'errrrr'. Yep no agua. O pues. we don't shower much anyway.
The next morning we awake with all intentions of grabbing breakfast before hand. But we are slow, and don't pack our things fast enough. La doña hails us a cab and off we go to the terrestre. As you walk towards the station, there are lots of vendors. Prefect. Breakfast time. We ask the lady for 2 empanadas de queso And two orange juices to go. The empanadas are straight. She wraps them in napkins and done. The juice: little bit more of an issue. She doesn't have to go cups. The neighbor doesnt have anything for to go. Suddenly we see her squeezing more oranges. There is plenty of juice for 2 glasses. What is she doing? At this point, we are also concerned about possibly missing our bus. Then we notice that she is going for the bags. Juice Babies! Of course! She pours half of the juice in each bag, sticks a straw in the middle and ties it shut. 8 soles. I pay the lady and we rush into the terminal.
7:40. We have plenty of time. I go up to the counter hand the lady my ticket and try to check our bags.
"sola una mochila". What? I bought 2 tickets; you better believe I'm checking one bag for each ticket. I tell her this and she starts arguing with me; lady, I'm decaffeinated. You really aren't going to win this one. Finally after a minute or two, she sighs, lets out an "ay" and goes with it. Ha! That's what I thought. Trying to short me by making us carry one of the packs. You my friendly teller are una loquita.
Onto the bus we go. We get to the top of the stairs and it's blocked. A British man turns to us and asks us where were trying to go. Our seats are 1 and 2, so to the front. There are already people there. They double booked the seats. The brits are a little frazzled, but I just tell them I'll go talk to the person. No big deal. They insist on coming with me, which is mildly comical because they didn't speak a lick of spanish. We get down to the woman and the men step in front, showing their tickets and kind of flailing about. I find it very amusing that when someone doesnt speak the language, folks just speak louder and slower; like that helps. The woman just stares at them until I push past a bit and explain it in Spanish. She quickly goes to the book, looks some things over and "straightens" it out ... or so we think. We climb back on and there's someone new in the seat. He has the same seat number. At this point, the Brits are about to hit the roof. Luckily the guy quickly gets up, just says it's ok, and moves to the back ... Poor dude.
So the trip has begun. I have to say that the scenery to Arequipa was absolutely beautiful. And I'm constantly amused by the things that I'm seeing for the first time here in Peru; in Lima it was the pacific, Arequipa the desert ... It's awesome.
The Brits were a riot the entire trip. They were just as baffled as us about the cultural differences, but express it constantly and loudly. They began making up names for each other. The scenario would go something like so (and imagine it in either a British or Irish accent to get the true effect):
"Ahhh right she can me machu picchu mory. But what can eilene be?"
" ... inca eilene"
" oh inca eilene! Perfect! Now isn't that just splendid! Oh! And Paul can be pachacuteq Paul!"
Too funny. obviously they had been on a lot of tours explaining Inca history.
So last crazy bus ride we had a stop at a restaurant in the middle of nowhere in order to almorzar. This time we had a butcher. No joke! So I've learned a common occurrence on a bus is for the someone to get on the bus at either a station or a stop, attempt to make some money, and jump off at the ends of town. So it's around lunch time and we stop somewhere and let a couple of ladies on. Of course there's no room, so they snuggle themselves amongst the Brits/Irish and ourselves, sitting in the aisles. They plop a few things down (which of course the Brits are going on about) and start calling out for something. I look over beside me, trying my best to be discreet. Ahhh. Juice babies! Why not??! The Brits didnt understand this concept of putting juice in a bag: "well how on earth do you drink it?" one of them asked me at some point. I go back to minding my own business until this smell begins to fill the bus and I begin to hear the Brits:
"well it does smell awful good" "oh I could never trust it" "do you think she does this often" "what if she cuts herself?"
I turn around to see the younger woman sitting on the stairs, cleaver in hand, hacking away at this large roasted animal wrapped in paper. She hands a napkinful to the older lady to sell. I look at the back of the bus; everyone's eating it ... That is except for the Brits and veggies. Then 10 minutes later it's the end of the town; she wraps the animal back up, throw it on her back, grab the juice babies and descend. It's the end of the town; it's time for their departure.
Solo en Perú ....
—la gringuita
After we left machu picchu, rode the bus to Aguas calientes, paid way too much money for dinner, made another doggy friend, took the train to ollantaytambo ( where I made friends with 2 guys from Oregon, rob and Randall), where we caught a colectivo to cusco. I love this combi/collectivo idea. You meet folks, it's inexpensive, more comfortable than a bus, and super convenient. This colectivo took us back to cusco where we were crashing for the night before our day trip to arequipa.
When we arrive at the hostel, la doña, who was super sweet, let's us in and hands us two bottles of water "para lavar Los dientes". She doesn't really explain why except to say that when it rains a lot the water in the city is - and makes a motion with her hands. I've noticed this a bit in Spanish before. And I have determined that it is for 1 of 3 reasons:
1. The words don't exist in Spanish vocabulary and so they just describe it with noises and movements.
2. They figure the gringos won't know that vocabulary.
3. The vocabulary is there but it's uncommon slang.
I'm thinking número uno.
Well apparently this waving motion meant that there was no water. We got upstairs, and go to consider a shower and all we get is 'errrrr'. Yep no agua. O pues. we don't shower much anyway.
The next morning we awake with all intentions of grabbing breakfast before hand. But we are slow, and don't pack our things fast enough. La doña hails us a cab and off we go to the terrestre. As you walk towards the station, there are lots of vendors. Prefect. Breakfast time. We ask the lady for 2 empanadas de queso And two orange juices to go. The empanadas are straight. She wraps them in napkins and done. The juice: little bit more of an issue. She doesn't have to go cups. The neighbor doesnt have anything for to go. Suddenly we see her squeezing more oranges. There is plenty of juice for 2 glasses. What is she doing? At this point, we are also concerned about possibly missing our bus. Then we notice that she is going for the bags. Juice Babies! Of course! She pours half of the juice in each bag, sticks a straw in the middle and ties it shut. 8 soles. I pay the lady and we rush into the terminal.
7:40. We have plenty of time. I go up to the counter hand the lady my ticket and try to check our bags.
"sola una mochila". What? I bought 2 tickets; you better believe I'm checking one bag for each ticket. I tell her this and she starts arguing with me; lady, I'm decaffeinated. You really aren't going to win this one. Finally after a minute or two, she sighs, lets out an "ay" and goes with it. Ha! That's what I thought. Trying to short me by making us carry one of the packs. You my friendly teller are una loquita.
Onto the bus we go. We get to the top of the stairs and it's blocked. A British man turns to us and asks us where were trying to go. Our seats are 1 and 2, so to the front. There are already people there. They double booked the seats. The brits are a little frazzled, but I just tell them I'll go talk to the person. No big deal. They insist on coming with me, which is mildly comical because they didn't speak a lick of spanish. We get down to the woman and the men step in front, showing their tickets and kind of flailing about. I find it very amusing that when someone doesnt speak the language, folks just speak louder and slower; like that helps. The woman just stares at them until I push past a bit and explain it in Spanish. She quickly goes to the book, looks some things over and "straightens" it out ... or so we think. We climb back on and there's someone new in the seat. He has the same seat number. At this point, the Brits are about to hit the roof. Luckily the guy quickly gets up, just says it's ok, and moves to the back ... Poor dude.
So the trip has begun. I have to say that the scenery to Arequipa was absolutely beautiful. And I'm constantly amused by the things that I'm seeing for the first time here in Peru; in Lima it was the pacific, Arequipa the desert ... It's awesome.
The Brits were a riot the entire trip. They were just as baffled as us about the cultural differences, but express it constantly and loudly. They began making up names for each other. The scenario would go something like so (and imagine it in either a British or Irish accent to get the true effect):
"Ahhh right she can me machu picchu mory. But what can eilene be?"
" ... inca eilene"
" oh inca eilene! Perfect! Now isn't that just splendid! Oh! And Paul can be pachacuteq Paul!"
Too funny. obviously they had been on a lot of tours explaining Inca history.
So last crazy bus ride we had a stop at a restaurant in the middle of nowhere in order to almorzar. This time we had a butcher. No joke! So I've learned a common occurrence on a bus is for the someone to get on the bus at either a station or a stop, attempt to make some money, and jump off at the ends of town. So it's around lunch time and we stop somewhere and let a couple of ladies on. Of course there's no room, so they snuggle themselves amongst the Brits/Irish and ourselves, sitting in the aisles. They plop a few things down (which of course the Brits are going on about) and start calling out for something. I look over beside me, trying my best to be discreet. Ahhh. Juice babies! Why not??! The Brits didnt understand this concept of putting juice in a bag: "well how on earth do you drink it?" one of them asked me at some point. I go back to minding my own business until this smell begins to fill the bus and I begin to hear the Brits:
"well it does smell awful good" "oh I could never trust it" "do you think she does this often" "what if she cuts herself?"
I turn around to see the younger woman sitting on the stairs, cleaver in hand, hacking away at this large roasted animal wrapped in paper. She hands a napkinful to the older lady to sell. I look at the back of the bus; everyone's eating it ... That is except for the Brits and veggies. Then 10 minutes later it's the end of the town; she wraps the animal back up, throw it on her back, grab the juice babies and descend. It's the end of the town; it's time for their departure.
Solo en Perú ....
—la gringuita
Thursday, July 7, 2011
Mi paseo a Machu Picchu: llena de nubes
The machu Picchu adventure begins in cusco. In cusco, you walk down this street and duck into an alley where folks are taking collective groups to ollyanta, where we stayed last night, to catch a train to Aguas calientes from where you catch another bus to the top of the mountain. Now you can hike up the mountain, but you are just walking along side the road. What fun is that?
I think the most comical parts of our trip has centered around the public transportation. I suppose it is because so often we are doing the tourist thing and are staying at hostels where there are only travelers. But the bus rides are truly a trip. So we jump in this 'colectivo' kept in this alleyway for a ride to ollantaytambo. We load our things in and the guys tells us we have to wait for 2 more. Those peruvians, they will shove as many in as they can. So this older lady gets in, and she has her son, Alberto, coming also, but he's not here yet. Oh but we can meet him down the street. The driver starts to pull out and in typical Peruvian sense, blocks all lanes of traffic for a few minutes ( ya know, he was trying to make his own lane). So we start down and she spots Alberto walking. So she tells the driver who in turn honks the horn and she's just kind of getting flustered and telling Alberto to hurry, but I doubt he can here her. Oh and mind you, that she has also now opened her lunch in the cab, and were not tAlking a sandwich; it is a full on bowl of rice and meat and some other stuff which of course is filling the taxi with it's scent. So Alberto starts running down the road, and albertos not a little guy, jumps in the cab out of breath and were off. We drive through this one part of cusco, that i didn't know, where the people are selling food left and right on the street. And by food I don't mean street vendors; I mean men with whole dead pigs on there backs just takin it home for dinner.
So the whole ride is filled with la señora talking on the phone (and being very opinionated on the phone), Latino radio, little Convo between Alberto and his mom, and the mom forcing the food towards Alberto "come más Alberto. Come más!" which Alberto keeps trying to refuse but mom is not allowing. I think the topper of the ride was when her phone went off again and the ring is this dreadful, screeching noise, to which she responds "¡O mi cuy!". Cuy is guinea pig, a fine delicacy that you find all over peru. And that was what the ring was: a screech of a cuy; at this point the whole taxi burst into laughter.
We stayed the night in ollantaytambo in a very nice hostel filled with cats, which of course Megs loved and I hated; but other than that it was a pretty nice hostel complete with hammocks on their rooftop. It was actually a pretty ideal hostel except for the fact that it is in Ollantaytambo which has nothing going on.
We are catching the train at 8:30 the next morning, a train that we cannot miss. So what do we do? The fearless leader, that would be me, turns on an old alarm setting from school for 6:30. Problem is this alarm is set for weekdays and it's Sunday. Yep we oversleep. Yes, I know, good job kaelyn. I wake up at like 7:50 and wake Megs up. We scramble and throw all of our stuff in our packs, pay the doña downstairs and speed walk to the train station. We arrive at 8:20. Nice. Just enough time to grab an empanada and a café para llevar from a nearby café. Packs loaded, empanadas eaten, coffee sufficiently eaten and we are on our way again. About 2 hours later, after a very scenic bus ride, we get off at Aguas calientes And make our way to the cultural center to buy tix to enter mp.
At the center, I was once again thankful that my spanish is so good. I get up to the counter, ask the man for a ticket, hand him my passport, and now he's just staring at me. So I ask him how much for a ticket.
"ciento sesenta soles(160)"
"¿Ciento qué?"
"¡SESENTA! Ciento sesenta soles"
So I'm standing there thinking to myself, I knew mp was expensive but I thought it was around 120 soles, not 160 soles. So I fumble with my wallet and look around. There's a sign that says adult 126 soles. So I look at the man behind the counter and ask why it was not 126 soles. Oh yes thats what I said 126 soles... Right buddy.
So almost there at this point. Now just to buy the bus tickets, which we don't know where the station is. Awesome. Another 10 minutes of wandering and asking we get to the ticket booth. $15 ... Wait ... You want me to pay in dollars? I only have soles! Aren't we in Peru? I look in my wallet. Phew....I have a 20 and a handful of ones. I hand the teller the 20; she looks at it and points to a minuscule tear in the corner, shaking her head. Crap! No one will take this flipping 20 due to that tear. So I look at her and ask if I can pay in soles. ¡Claro que sí! Well how would I know that?? All of your signs are in English and are presented in dollars.
Oh life on a bus...
So bus tickets in hand, we load up, packs in lap and ride the hour long, bumpy, windy road to mp.
Shockingly it has been raining and super foggy in cusco these past few days. I had high hopes that we would climb high enough and surpass all the gnarliness. I was wrong. My trip to mp was encased in fog. Though it gave it a pretty awesome eerie effect. But it definitely limited my photo ops. I still got some awesome shots and Megs and I walked this trail that was absolutely amazing. What I love about this country is that their sense of protection for dangerous situations is so lax. For example we are walking this tiny windy trail, a couple thousand feet up, and there's just the edge. No guard rail; no blockade. It's as if they are saying if your dumb enough to get that close to fall, you're dumb enough to die. There are rooftop terraces in all the hostels with again no wall to secure anyone. But who cares? if you fall, it's your own dumb-ass fault. They are not out to protect those with a lack of common sense. And I love it.
—La gringuita
I think the most comical parts of our trip has centered around the public transportation. I suppose it is because so often we are doing the tourist thing and are staying at hostels where there are only travelers. But the bus rides are truly a trip. So we jump in this 'colectivo' kept in this alleyway for a ride to ollantaytambo. We load our things in and the guys tells us we have to wait for 2 more. Those peruvians, they will shove as many in as they can. So this older lady gets in, and she has her son, Alberto, coming also, but he's not here yet. Oh but we can meet him down the street. The driver starts to pull out and in typical Peruvian sense, blocks all lanes of traffic for a few minutes ( ya know, he was trying to make his own lane). So we start down and she spots Alberto walking. So she tells the driver who in turn honks the horn and she's just kind of getting flustered and telling Alberto to hurry, but I doubt he can here her. Oh and mind you, that she has also now opened her lunch in the cab, and were not tAlking a sandwich; it is a full on bowl of rice and meat and some other stuff which of course is filling the taxi with it's scent. So Alberto starts running down the road, and albertos not a little guy, jumps in the cab out of breath and were off. We drive through this one part of cusco, that i didn't know, where the people are selling food left and right on the street. And by food I don't mean street vendors; I mean men with whole dead pigs on there backs just takin it home for dinner.
So the whole ride is filled with la señora talking on the phone (and being very opinionated on the phone), Latino radio, little Convo between Alberto and his mom, and the mom forcing the food towards Alberto "come más Alberto. Come más!" which Alberto keeps trying to refuse but mom is not allowing. I think the topper of the ride was when her phone went off again and the ring is this dreadful, screeching noise, to which she responds "¡O mi cuy!". Cuy is guinea pig, a fine delicacy that you find all over peru. And that was what the ring was: a screech of a cuy; at this point the whole taxi burst into laughter.
We stayed the night in ollantaytambo in a very nice hostel filled with cats, which of course Megs loved and I hated; but other than that it was a pretty nice hostel complete with hammocks on their rooftop. It was actually a pretty ideal hostel except for the fact that it is in Ollantaytambo which has nothing going on.
We are catching the train at 8:30 the next morning, a train that we cannot miss. So what do we do? The fearless leader, that would be me, turns on an old alarm setting from school for 6:30. Problem is this alarm is set for weekdays and it's Sunday. Yep we oversleep. Yes, I know, good job kaelyn. I wake up at like 7:50 and wake Megs up. We scramble and throw all of our stuff in our packs, pay the doña downstairs and speed walk to the train station. We arrive at 8:20. Nice. Just enough time to grab an empanada and a café para llevar from a nearby café. Packs loaded, empanadas eaten, coffee sufficiently eaten and we are on our way again. About 2 hours later, after a very scenic bus ride, we get off at Aguas calientes And make our way to the cultural center to buy tix to enter mp.
At the center, I was once again thankful that my spanish is so good. I get up to the counter, ask the man for a ticket, hand him my passport, and now he's just staring at me. So I ask him how much for a ticket.
"ciento sesenta soles(160)"
"¿Ciento qué?"
"¡SESENTA! Ciento sesenta soles"
So I'm standing there thinking to myself, I knew mp was expensive but I thought it was around 120 soles, not 160 soles. So I fumble with my wallet and look around. There's a sign that says adult 126 soles. So I look at the man behind the counter and ask why it was not 126 soles. Oh yes thats what I said 126 soles... Right buddy.
So almost there at this point. Now just to buy the bus tickets, which we don't know where the station is. Awesome. Another 10 minutes of wandering and asking we get to the ticket booth. $15 ... Wait ... You want me to pay in dollars? I only have soles! Aren't we in Peru? I look in my wallet. Phew....I have a 20 and a handful of ones. I hand the teller the 20; she looks at it and points to a minuscule tear in the corner, shaking her head. Crap! No one will take this flipping 20 due to that tear. So I look at her and ask if I can pay in soles. ¡Claro que sí! Well how would I know that?? All of your signs are in English and are presented in dollars.
Oh life on a bus...
So bus tickets in hand, we load up, packs in lap and ride the hour long, bumpy, windy road to mp.
Shockingly it has been raining and super foggy in cusco these past few days. I had high hopes that we would climb high enough and surpass all the gnarliness. I was wrong. My trip to mp was encased in fog. Though it gave it a pretty awesome eerie effect. But it definitely limited my photo ops. I still got some awesome shots and Megs and I walked this trail that was absolutely amazing. What I love about this country is that their sense of protection for dangerous situations is so lax. For example we are walking this tiny windy trail, a couple thousand feet up, and there's just the edge. No guard rail; no blockade. It's as if they are saying if your dumb enough to get that close to fall, you're dumb enough to die. There are rooftop terraces in all the hostels with again no wall to secure anyone. But who cares? if you fall, it's your own dumb-ass fault. They are not out to protect those with a lack of common sense. And I love it.
—La gringuita
Los pobre perritos: nuestros amigos
So tonight we stayed in ollaynta before going to machu picchu in the morning. Ollaynta doesnt exactly have a whole lot going on. But in the normal, somewhat traditional Peruvian sense, it does have a whole lot of stray dogs and cats.
The dr. Doolittle effect has continued here in south America. Tonight Megs and I were walking around the plaza in hopes to grab a snack and maybe a cerveza. You see ferrel dogs everywhere here in Peru; typically they keep to themselves and typically people pay no attention to them. It's very sad. You'll see the fighting, going through the trash, or just looking so sad and emaciated. It really makes me want to start a "save the dogs of Peru" fund and somehow find them all homes. So back to tonight: this scruffy little sweet mutt is wandering through the plaza and when Meghan and I walked by, he just decided we were good folks and followed us. Of course, my reaction and that of Megs is completely opposite. And I feel horrible for this dog as we wander for 20 minutes or so and he keeps following us. Finally we decide on a little pub and fo inside. After finishing our meal, roughly an hour to an hour and a half later, we leave. We take one step out the door and who is there? Scruffsters magoo. At this point were both so sad for him. We walk back to our hostel, scruffsters in tow, and when we go inside he pokes his head in the door. I mean reAlly dog?? Don't you have your normal stray dog spot where you sleep?? You're breaking my heart!! I tell him to go on and he leaves. We stand there for a minute and talk about this poor dog. I'm wondering if he's just waiting outside. I poke my head out the door, and there he is: curled up in a little donut roll, sound asleep 5 feet from the door. I told Meghan and myself that I couldn't leave this dog. If he was there in the morning, somehow I was helping him. I already had read that you can buy super cheap brand new cars in tacna. I could just buy one and bring him back was my thought.
Luckily, he was gone in the morning.
—la gringuitA
The dr. Doolittle effect has continued here in south America. Tonight Megs and I were walking around the plaza in hopes to grab a snack and maybe a cerveza. You see ferrel dogs everywhere here in Peru; typically they keep to themselves and typically people pay no attention to them. It's very sad. You'll see the fighting, going through the trash, or just looking so sad and emaciated. It really makes me want to start a "save the dogs of Peru" fund and somehow find them all homes. So back to tonight: this scruffy little sweet mutt is wandering through the plaza and when Meghan and I walked by, he just decided we were good folks and followed us. Of course, my reaction and that of Megs is completely opposite. And I feel horrible for this dog as we wander for 20 minutes or so and he keeps following us. Finally we decide on a little pub and fo inside. After finishing our meal, roughly an hour to an hour and a half later, we leave. We take one step out the door and who is there? Scruffsters magoo. At this point were both so sad for him. We walk back to our hostel, scruffsters in tow, and when we go inside he pokes his head in the door. I mean reAlly dog?? Don't you have your normal stray dog spot where you sleep?? You're breaking my heart!! I tell him to go on and he leaves. We stand there for a minute and talk about this poor dog. I'm wondering if he's just waiting outside. I poke my head out the door, and there he is: curled up in a little donut roll, sound asleep 5 feet from the door. I told Meghan and myself that I couldn't leave this dog. If he was there in the morning, somehow I was helping him. I already had read that you can buy super cheap brand new cars in tacna. I could just buy one and bring him back was my thought.
Luckily, he was gone in the morning.
—la gringuitA
Tuesday, July 5, 2011
Cusco y mas
We finally arrived to cusco early Wednesday morning. Unfortunately it was not just early, it was super early: 5:45 kind of early. After being thoroughly harassed outside of the train station for taxis and hotels, we got on our way to the center of the city. One of the things you have to understand about getting haggled outside of an airport/bus station is that they don't leave you alone. You tell them that you don't need a hotel or that you're good and they almost get pissed when you walk away. You'll hear them exclaim "ay" or something and then come follow after you insisting that you need to stay at this hotel. Well for those of you who know me well, know that I'm not exactly a morning person, and you know even better that I don't do well before my morning coffee. So, knowing this, I'm sure you can imagine how well I handled the "vendors" outside of the bus station before 6 am. I actually think that I may have slightly frightened one of them. He was trying to get us to stay at his hotel, and he wouldn't leave us alone. I finally turned to him and sharply said "dije que estamos bien" he just gave me this look of "ok...I won't be talking with her anymore" and then left us alone.
Once we got to the plaza, we began to look for a hostel. I'm sure all of those hostel owners loved us ringing their bells at 6 am. I mean we would have stopped at the first hostel, if it wasn't 90 soles a night!! I mean, for real, that's roughly $30 a night!!! Estaban locos! We finally found a spot about an hour later for what we thought was 30 pesos....in reality, he meant 30 per person... We didn't become aware of this until the following morning when he politely asked for more money from Megs. She was confused and came in the room telling me to go talk to him. After realizing this, we still decided that it was going to be cheaper than the bulk of the hostels in town. Cusco was kind of expensive in that regard, mostly because we were trying to stay close to the plazas.
I'm going to have serious issues adjusting back to the expenses in the states. The rate here is roughly 2.75 soles to the dollar. And you're money goes a long way. Occasionally you will find the restaurant trying to charge you 30 soles for lunch, but when you look closely, you can typically find any of your meals for under 15 soles. Meghan and I found this awesome little veggie place the other night, "el encuentro". We ended up going back for breakfast today it was so good. It was awesome: totally family run, veggie friendly, and they had tp and soap in the bathroom!! Tp and soap together are a rare find in a bathroom here in Peru. I think I'm going to write all of the guide books and tell them to include "el encuentro". This morning, Meghan and I got breakfast for 23 soles together...I had coffee, fresh orange juice, toast, panes, and a cheese and shroom omelet; Megs had a huge fruit salad, yogurt, toast, panes and coffee. Plus they were playing Happy Feet in Spanish....I mean: score!
Cusco has been a lot of fun. We have just walked around and ate food: the two things Megs and I do best. I wish I had more time for some serious hikes, but that will just have to be another trip to Peru.
I also got to meet the infamous Patricia, megs' host mom. She is adorable! Very friendly and sweet and teeny-tiny. I felt like I was going to break her when she gave me a hug. She reminds me of someone, but I can't quite place who.
Panqueques are very big here (aka crepes). And I LOVE me some panqueques! But they use a lot of eggs to make them. Seeing as patricia's vegan, she didnt think she could enjoy such loveliness. Megs and I took care of that idea. The day we went to visit we brought her a recipe for vegan banana pancakes. She was so excited! She wanted to make them right away...which of course we did. Vegan banana pancakes at 3 in the afternoon....only in peru.
~la gringuita
Once we got to the plaza, we began to look for a hostel. I'm sure all of those hostel owners loved us ringing their bells at 6 am. I mean we would have stopped at the first hostel, if it wasn't 90 soles a night!! I mean, for real, that's roughly $30 a night!!! Estaban locos! We finally found a spot about an hour later for what we thought was 30 pesos....in reality, he meant 30 per person... We didn't become aware of this until the following morning when he politely asked for more money from Megs. She was confused and came in the room telling me to go talk to him. After realizing this, we still decided that it was going to be cheaper than the bulk of the hostels in town. Cusco was kind of expensive in that regard, mostly because we were trying to stay close to the plazas.
I'm going to have serious issues adjusting back to the expenses in the states. The rate here is roughly 2.75 soles to the dollar. And you're money goes a long way. Occasionally you will find the restaurant trying to charge you 30 soles for lunch, but when you look closely, you can typically find any of your meals for under 15 soles. Meghan and I found this awesome little veggie place the other night, "el encuentro". We ended up going back for breakfast today it was so good. It was awesome: totally family run, veggie friendly, and they had tp and soap in the bathroom!! Tp and soap together are a rare find in a bathroom here in Peru. I think I'm going to write all of the guide books and tell them to include "el encuentro". This morning, Meghan and I got breakfast for 23 soles together...I had coffee, fresh orange juice, toast, panes, and a cheese and shroom omelet; Megs had a huge fruit salad, yogurt, toast, panes and coffee. Plus they were playing Happy Feet in Spanish....I mean: score!
Cusco has been a lot of fun. We have just walked around and ate food: the two things Megs and I do best. I wish I had more time for some serious hikes, but that will just have to be another trip to Peru.
I also got to meet the infamous Patricia, megs' host mom. She is adorable! Very friendly and sweet and teeny-tiny. I felt like I was going to break her when she gave me a hug. She reminds me of someone, but I can't quite place who.
Panqueques are very big here (aka crepes). And I LOVE me some panqueques! But they use a lot of eggs to make them. Seeing as patricia's vegan, she didnt think she could enjoy such loveliness. Megs and I took care of that idea. The day we went to visit we brought her a recipe for vegan banana pancakes. She was so excited! She wanted to make them right away...which of course we did. Vegan banana pancakes at 3 in the afternoon....only in peru.
~la gringuita
Wednesday, June 29, 2011
El paseo del bus a cusco....una aventura en si misma
So ... back to life on a bus. Ayacucho is a very small town located east of Lima in the mountains. In order to continue on to cusco, you must continue through those mountains. See if you take a bus straight from Lima to cusco, they drive south and them east on a very nice paved road. But this is not the option if you'd like to visit ayAcucho.
So Megs and I bought tickets from the not-so-luxurious bus company Los chankas, the only one that travels this route. We board the bus filled with only one other extranjero couple from France/Spain. Off we go! At first it's not bad: the scenery is beautiful, it's still pretty cool. Then the pavement ends...
Were taking this dirt road through these insane mountains. I have to say I was the crazy tourist snapping photos left and right out of my window. The "towns" or I would even call them villages were so, so poor. There was absolutely NOTHING there. Then suddenly you have someone up at the front, tapping on the door to the driver. The door opens and the lady shouts "baja baja". You stop and look around; there is nothing here. Why the hell is she getting off. Then you see her 2 boys walk off and turn their backs to the bus. Ahhh...a modern day bathroom break on the side of the road. Well you do what you gotta do. I just internally remind myself to ration my water supply as to keep from having to resort to the Same extreme.
The bus ride continues as such. Bathroom breaks; people joining and leaving in these remote locations; police stops and checks; and road work. Oh the road work. See in the states, when you have the road only open to one lane of traffic, you have the guys with the signs. Well it is similar here, except that instead of every 10 minutes or so and the sign- guys. communicating by walkie, here it's just a set hour. So if you get to the road at 3:05 and it's the other side's turn, well sucks to be you. You just have to wait til 4.
I think the most amusing part was when we were on these windy mountainous roads. It kind of reminded me of the small back roads in Boone. You'd be winding either up or down these 1 lane dirt roads. Well when you hit a big curve that you couldn't see around you just blare your horn. What else would you do?? Those peruvians and their horns. I think they would be lost without them.
Finally 9 hours lAter we pull into Andahuaylas bus station, where Meg and I had both agreed to stop for the night. After talking with the driver to ensure that there would be a bus tomorrow, paying 50 centimos to use a wretched bathroom, and realizing that attempting to find an hostel in Andahuaylas was going to be yet another adventure, we said screw it and bough the " luxury" night tix to cusco. When I asked the lady what the difference in the 2buses was, she said the luxury one had reclining seats, they showed a movie, gave you a snack and had heat and blankets...score!!! I'll pay the extra 5 soles. Right...luxury my ass: the movie was a 12 yr old local boy with a speech impediment rubbing shells together and singing in quechua, Megs and I had to share this homemade snack bag of a juice Box and "kraps" Peru's version of ritz crackers; I had to jack the blanket off of a neighbor seat that wasn't using theirs (and share with Megs of course); and the heat finally came on about 3 hours in, just long enough for you to put every layer you have on and then start sweating. Thanks chankas...it was an experience. But we did finally arrive in cusco at a lovely 5.45 am... At this point, whatever ... I just want food and a hostel. Let's just say well be traveling via Cruz del sur from now on.
~la gringuita
So Megs and I bought tickets from the not-so-luxurious bus company Los chankas, the only one that travels this route. We board the bus filled with only one other extranjero couple from France/Spain. Off we go! At first it's not bad: the scenery is beautiful, it's still pretty cool. Then the pavement ends...
Were taking this dirt road through these insane mountains. I have to say I was the crazy tourist snapping photos left and right out of my window. The "towns" or I would even call them villages were so, so poor. There was absolutely NOTHING there. Then suddenly you have someone up at the front, tapping on the door to the driver. The door opens and the lady shouts "baja baja". You stop and look around; there is nothing here. Why the hell is she getting off. Then you see her 2 boys walk off and turn their backs to the bus. Ahhh...a modern day bathroom break on the side of the road. Well you do what you gotta do. I just internally remind myself to ration my water supply as to keep from having to resort to the Same extreme.
The bus ride continues as such. Bathroom breaks; people joining and leaving in these remote locations; police stops and checks; and road work. Oh the road work. See in the states, when you have the road only open to one lane of traffic, you have the guys with the signs. Well it is similar here, except that instead of every 10 minutes or so and the sign- guys. communicating by walkie, here it's just a set hour. So if you get to the road at 3:05 and it's the other side's turn, well sucks to be you. You just have to wait til 4.
I think the most amusing part was when we were on these windy mountainous roads. It kind of reminded me of the small back roads in Boone. You'd be winding either up or down these 1 lane dirt roads. Well when you hit a big curve that you couldn't see around you just blare your horn. What else would you do?? Those peruvians and their horns. I think they would be lost without them.
Finally 9 hours lAter we pull into Andahuaylas bus station, where Meg and I had both agreed to stop for the night. After talking with the driver to ensure that there would be a bus tomorrow, paying 50 centimos to use a wretched bathroom, and realizing that attempting to find an hostel in Andahuaylas was going to be yet another adventure, we said screw it and bough the " luxury" night tix to cusco. When I asked the lady what the difference in the 2buses was, she said the luxury one had reclining seats, they showed a movie, gave you a snack and had heat and blankets...score!!! I'll pay the extra 5 soles. Right...luxury my ass: the movie was a 12 yr old local boy with a speech impediment rubbing shells together and singing in quechua, Megs and I had to share this homemade snack bag of a juice Box and "kraps" Peru's version of ritz crackers; I had to jack the blanket off of a neighbor seat that wasn't using theirs (and share with Megs of course); and the heat finally came on about 3 hours in, just long enough for you to put every layer you have on and then start sweating. Thanks chankas...it was an experience. But we did finally arrive in cusco at a lovely 5.45 am... At this point, whatever ... I just want food and a hostel. Let's just say well be traveling via Cruz del sur from now on.
~la gringuita
Mi vida en un bus
Yes folks .... life on a bus....I would prefer to do without I do believe. Meghan and I hopped on a very nice bus for our over night ride to Ayacucho. Though the bus was super nice, we were both too amped up and too cramped to really sleep. These buses were obviously made for Peruvians ... my legs have never felt so cramped!!
We arrived in Ayacucho around 7 the next morning. Got off the bus at the "bus station" which really was more of just an alley way with a small room to grab your bag. Off we went into Ayacucho, sleepy and starving. First things first: finding the hostel. We stayed at the simple, but lovely Hostel Tres Máscaras very close to their Plaza de Armas. The Doña who ran the place was absolutely adorable and just about as kind as could be. We put our things down and headed out for breakfast.
What you have to understand about Ayacucho is that it was a somewhat popular tourist stop years ago, but then the terrorism in the late 90s put a huge end to that. The town has never quite recovered. It was amusing, walking through the streets, exhausted and starved, and having all of the small local children pointing at Meghan and I, going "¡Mira! ¡Mira! ¡Gringas!". Yea, they don´t see too many "gringas" in Ayacucho any more.
Breakfast was, at most, palatable. The coffee was horrible, but we were so tired that it didn´t matter. Isn´t that sad?? Afterwards, we walked through the local mercado which made me want to vomit. I forgot how gross it is to see all the meats just hanging out there in like 80 degree heat waiting to be purchased. Uggghhh....I looked at Meg and said "Voy a vomitar; Nos vamos". We walked from there to the "artesan district" of Plaza Santa Ana. After walking and walking and walking, we came to the conclusion that it no longer exists. At this point, it was time for a nap. Our nap was devine, except for the parrots outside in the courtyard of the hostel. They kept screeching "hola, hola, señoooora" . It was obvious that they liked the attention. The rest of the afternoon and evening was spent walking around Ayacucho in search of things that no longer existed and getting pointed/whistled at. Oh Ayacucho! You´ll always hold a special place in my heart.
The next morning, we woke up super early (ya know....like 6 am) and gathered our things to head to the bus station. We had bought tickets for the only bus that goes to Cusco and had decided that we would break up the trip by stopping for the night in Andahuaylas. We had found the station the day before, but were heading a different way this morning; but we had our map and figured we would be good to go. Wrong! See the "Moon" guidebook is great, but often has little details wrong, like being a block over for the station. After wandering for about 10 minutes a nice local man pointed us in the right direction. We were lucky! We loaded our bags, took our seats, and the bus immediately started up. I have to say it was probably the most interesting bus ride to date. But more on that later. I need to get out there and enjoy some CUSCO!!
Hasta pronto mis amores-
la gringuita
We arrived in Ayacucho around 7 the next morning. Got off the bus at the "bus station" which really was more of just an alley way with a small room to grab your bag. Off we went into Ayacucho, sleepy and starving. First things first: finding the hostel. We stayed at the simple, but lovely Hostel Tres Máscaras very close to their Plaza de Armas. The Doña who ran the place was absolutely adorable and just about as kind as could be. We put our things down and headed out for breakfast.
What you have to understand about Ayacucho is that it was a somewhat popular tourist stop years ago, but then the terrorism in the late 90s put a huge end to that. The town has never quite recovered. It was amusing, walking through the streets, exhausted and starved, and having all of the small local children pointing at Meghan and I, going "¡Mira! ¡Mira! ¡Gringas!". Yea, they don´t see too many "gringas" in Ayacucho any more.
Breakfast was, at most, palatable. The coffee was horrible, but we were so tired that it didn´t matter. Isn´t that sad?? Afterwards, we walked through the local mercado which made me want to vomit. I forgot how gross it is to see all the meats just hanging out there in like 80 degree heat waiting to be purchased. Uggghhh....I looked at Meg and said "Voy a vomitar; Nos vamos". We walked from there to the "artesan district" of Plaza Santa Ana. After walking and walking and walking, we came to the conclusion that it no longer exists. At this point, it was time for a nap. Our nap was devine, except for the parrots outside in the courtyard of the hostel. They kept screeching "hola, hola, señoooora" . It was obvious that they liked the attention. The rest of the afternoon and evening was spent walking around Ayacucho in search of things that no longer existed and getting pointed/whistled at. Oh Ayacucho! You´ll always hold a special place in my heart.
The next morning, we woke up super early (ya know....like 6 am) and gathered our things to head to the bus station. We had bought tickets for the only bus that goes to Cusco and had decided that we would break up the trip by stopping for the night in Andahuaylas. We had found the station the day before, but were heading a different way this morning; but we had our map and figured we would be good to go. Wrong! See the "Moon" guidebook is great, but often has little details wrong, like being a block over for the station. After wandering for about 10 minutes a nice local man pointed us in the right direction. We were lucky! We loaded our bags, took our seats, and the bus immediately started up. I have to say it was probably the most interesting bus ride to date. But more on that later. I need to get out there and enjoy some CUSCO!!
Hasta pronto mis amores-
la gringuita
Sunday, June 26, 2011
En ruta a Ayacucho!
The adventure has begun! Meghan and I are sitting on the top of a double decker bus in the very front on our way to ayacuho. We are watching some Adam sandler and Jennifer aniston movie and just ate some strange ham infested meal, of which both of us picked off all of the ham. The bus is quite nice though. It even has wi-fi ... Kind of strange. Ok more in the morning. It's been a long day...
Saturday, June 25, 2011
Me olvida el sabor de un churro...
Oh how I had forgotten the goodness of a churro!! As I was walking last night with Lorena y Maria-Jose, they asked if I had had a churro yet from Manolo's. Of course, I had not. Oh, they are even better than I remember. When in Spain, I made a point of having some sort of pastel with my coffee each morning. I this tradition will continue aqu en Peru. So forgive me if I return to the States 20 lbs. heavier ;)
Churros in Peru are different though than those in Spain. In Spain, when you order them you have an option of flavor. This "flavor" comes along side of the churro in a little dipping cup. For example, a churro con chocolate would have a little cup of warmed chocolate syrup along side. Oh it is divine! Here they are filled with the creme, almost like a jelly-doughnut style. My churros was so tasty last night that I returned this morning for breakfast. There I sat, at Manolo's, with my 2 churros and my cafe con leche, which is pretty much a fix-it-yourself latte. They bring you a little cup of espresso and another of steamed milk along with a small mug to mix them. It's a great system; one we should probably adopt in the States. Sitting there reminded me of Spain; it made me a little sad at the same time. I feel like I had such an amazing experience in Spain, and I am having this amazing experience now; however, I feel like I have wasted so much time in between. This is the end of that. Every summer, every winter break, I vow I will see something new and fantastic while I can. Saying that ... who loves the Oat-goat??
Yesterday, I grabbed a taxi to the center of Lima and headed to La Plaza de Armas, which is their Plaza Mayor aqui. From there I trekked to Plaza de San Martin and tried Plaza Grau. Though Grau was under construction, which was a bumor. It's truly amazing, having visited Spain first, to be able to see all the Spanish influence there is hre in the different buildings and plazas. I have a better appreciation for the construction of Lima's center.
This morning, before Manolo's, I stumbled upon a little farmer's-like market with different crafts and produce ... it was way cool to see all of the local Lima folks filling their little shopping cart things with food for the week.
After Manolo's, I headed towards Parque Kennedy where there was a bunch of music and dancers and some sort of kid's festival. I couldn't get too close, but I still think I got some amazing photos. There were also a bunch of artists lined up along the sidewalk selling their art. There was some amazing different works, but unfortunately they were too large to transport home. I did purchase one small painting done on paper so that it's easier to roll and transport....20 soles!!! that's like $6....i love peru!!
Meghan arrives tonight, and I believe we will be heading to Ayacucho next!! Have had fun in Lima, but I'm ready to move on.
Ok, I'm off for my tour de peru via bicicleta....hasta Ayacucho mis amores!
besos~
la gringuita
Churros in Peru are different though than those in Spain. In Spain, when you order them you have an option of flavor. This "flavor" comes along side of the churro in a little dipping cup. For example, a churro con chocolate would have a little cup of warmed chocolate syrup along side. Oh it is divine! Here they are filled with the creme, almost like a jelly-doughnut style. My churros was so tasty last night that I returned this morning for breakfast. There I sat, at Manolo's, with my 2 churros and my cafe con leche, which is pretty much a fix-it-yourself latte. They bring you a little cup of espresso and another of steamed milk along with a small mug to mix them. It's a great system; one we should probably adopt in the States. Sitting there reminded me of Spain; it made me a little sad at the same time. I feel like I had such an amazing experience in Spain, and I am having this amazing experience now; however, I feel like I have wasted so much time in between. This is the end of that. Every summer, every winter break, I vow I will see something new and fantastic while I can. Saying that ... who loves the Oat-goat??
Yesterday, I grabbed a taxi to the center of Lima and headed to La Plaza de Armas, which is their Plaza Mayor aqui. From there I trekked to Plaza de San Martin and tried Plaza Grau. Though Grau was under construction, which was a bumor. It's truly amazing, having visited Spain first, to be able to see all the Spanish influence there is hre in the different buildings and plazas. I have a better appreciation for the construction of Lima's center.
This morning, before Manolo's, I stumbled upon a little farmer's-like market with different crafts and produce ... it was way cool to see all of the local Lima folks filling their little shopping cart things with food for the week.
After Manolo's, I headed towards Parque Kennedy where there was a bunch of music and dancers and some sort of kid's festival. I couldn't get too close, but I still think I got some amazing photos. There were also a bunch of artists lined up along the sidewalk selling their art. There was some amazing different works, but unfortunately they were too large to transport home. I did purchase one small painting done on paper so that it's easier to roll and transport....20 soles!!! that's like $6....i love peru!!
Meghan arrives tonight, and I believe we will be heading to Ayacucho next!! Have had fun in Lima, but I'm ready to move on.
Ok, I'm off for my tour de peru via bicicleta....hasta Ayacucho mis amores!
besos~
la gringuita
Friday, June 24, 2011
Aventuras de Lima
Alright Brett, I took your advice and began this blog ordeal. Though I am creating it via my phone so we'll see how far it goes. Saying that folks, forgive the lack of capitalization and other extraneous punctuation. Alright lyn?? Love you!!
I've been in Peru now for 3 days and have done a lot of roaming. I think it has been very good for my nomAd soul. I arrived in Tuesday night after a slightly turbulent yet enjoyable flight via Taca. As you can imagine exhausted doesn't even begin to explain how I was feeling. For those of you who do not know I flew out of Miami. See I found a flight for $500 ...how can you turn that down?? EsPecially when flights out of Raleigh and charlotte were like $12-1300 ... So after my initial buddy pass fell through, I began to consider other cities to fly out hoping it would be cheAper and hence I ended up in Miami. The drive was long but I had fantastic company, the lovely Ashley Wooten and partner in crime Justin Pinch, aka pinchy-poo. So braced at the wheel of moshi, I-pod loaded, and plenty of red bull and junk food, we set out at 9:00 Monday night. Even though pinch and I swapped off and I had the option of getting a solid 4 hours of sleep, I had consumed too many no-doze and too much caffeine and besides that my adrenaline was pumping. I was so excited and ready, that I unfortunately slept for only about an hour or 2. This was after a very unsuccessful 4 am trip to the local Georgia waffle house. We arrived in Miami in a very successful 13 hours. Unfortunately it was 10 and my flight did not leave until 4. But there was no way that I could have left later...mu body would have been shot. Plus driving through the night you never know if a rest stop for a few hours will be needed. Hence the 6 hour early arrival. I think the worst part was the fact that Taca did not begin there check in until 12. So there I was: Miami-Dade airport, sitting on the floor, my 30 lb pack still strapped on, waiting for Taca to open their gate. I have to say, rough mAy be an understatement as to how I looked at this point. The ladies gave me very odd looks when I was brushing my teeth and washing my face in the airport bathroom. I mean hey you do what you gotta do right? :)
Once in Lima, though, I have to say I have lucked out. My sister will not be here until Saturday, however, her friend from the coast is here and she and her host family have graciously agreed to another gringa in the house. So I have a safe, free place to crash and leave my gear bomb which is super nice. She stays in Miraflores which is a little suburb of Lima and slightly Americanized but quite busy and very walkable. That is if you can successfully dodge the taxi,s buses, combis and other crazy drivers :) although I think my driving would fit in well here.....Andrea you were right there.
My first day in miraflores I slept in super late And then strapped on my mini pack, armed with a guidebook and roamed. Being a gringo you learn reAl fast to walk quickly, headphones in, and eyes not connecting with anyone. Otherwise I feel you will feel totally harassed. I did speak with one interesting guy in el parquet Kennedy. He was nice enough but definitely had the machismo and flintiness trying. I think I disappointed him when I told him there was no way for him to contact me and that the point of this trip was for me to not make plans...pobrecito.
I did get quite lost that night. But i was rather amusing. Seee there are quite a few "óvalos" here in Lima where you have 6 or so streets intersect. I was on the right track and now looking back at it was only 2 streets over but for the life of me could not get there. So I eventually ducked into a mens clothing store and asked the clerk how to get over there. I felt like such a ding dong. Had I walked in the opposite direction I would have eventually gotten back over but kept turning back right before hand. But after speaking with this man. I was good to go. Though I did bump into a teenager (again a boy) who lightly made fun of me in spanish for walking "redondo" and asked me if I knew where I was going to which I responded that I never know where I'm going but iwas good. I think it confused him a bit.
Yesterday I walked to the coAst, of which I have some amazing photos which I will post when I return. Sorry Heidi...no 3 am photos till I get back :(. I took the road along the coast south into another suburb "barranco". Which is super cool. Very bohemian feel. Lots of cool architecture. A little dirty but in a good way. Not at all Americanized. Once again just roamed about, but this time with a map and I can now say I have luckily Gotten my bearings straight. Ate at a little veggie place. Super funny : I walked in around 7 and the place was dead. I had to poke my head around a corner to the kitchen to get anyone's attention. Apparently peruvians eat at like 3 and then again at 9 so they weren't expecting to see anyone. But it was a very good meal. I don't think a very Peruvian in style but damn it was tasty. And after walking for like 4 hours, my tummy was very happy.
That evening Lauren invited me along with her friend to a discoteca. It was interesting. What was funny was that we met up with her friend Pablo and took a combi to his friend alonzo's place to hang for a bit before. It was only like 9:00 and we could not go to " help" until 11....no one goes out before 111. At Alonzo's he had a girl staying there who went to school at state so she had invited a bunch of her friends over. It was weird. It was like a like a little NC reunion in Peru. Actually one of the girls knew some kids from the banks whom of course both Lauren and I knew. The discoteca was cool, just a guy playing a bunch of American rock and folks dancing. But being my old lady self had to leave about 1. I just don't have the staying power. So I bartered with a taxi and got myself home safely. Taxis are another funny part to Lima: they don't have meters, so you ask before hand what it would cost to get somewhere. Being a gringa, they almost always try to rip you off....i'm glad my Spanish is as good as it is thought; b/c when I look at them like they're crazy and then barter and obviously yes i'm a gringa...but not an idiot.
ok i had written a bunch more earlier today, but apparently it was erased. i'll tell you all about plaza mayor later.
besos y abrazos mis amores!
-la gringuita
I've been in Peru now for 3 days and have done a lot of roaming. I think it has been very good for my nomAd soul. I arrived in Tuesday night after a slightly turbulent yet enjoyable flight via Taca. As you can imagine exhausted doesn't even begin to explain how I was feeling. For those of you who do not know I flew out of Miami. See I found a flight for $500 ...how can you turn that down?? EsPecially when flights out of Raleigh and charlotte were like $12-1300 ... So after my initial buddy pass fell through, I began to consider other cities to fly out hoping it would be cheAper and hence I ended up in Miami. The drive was long but I had fantastic company, the lovely Ashley Wooten and partner in crime Justin Pinch, aka pinchy-poo. So braced at the wheel of moshi, I-pod loaded, and plenty of red bull and junk food, we set out at 9:00 Monday night. Even though pinch and I swapped off and I had the option of getting a solid 4 hours of sleep, I had consumed too many no-doze and too much caffeine and besides that my adrenaline was pumping. I was so excited and ready, that I unfortunately slept for only about an hour or 2. This was after a very unsuccessful 4 am trip to the local Georgia waffle house. We arrived in Miami in a very successful 13 hours. Unfortunately it was 10 and my flight did not leave until 4. But there was no way that I could have left later...mu body would have been shot. Plus driving through the night you never know if a rest stop for a few hours will be needed. Hence the 6 hour early arrival. I think the worst part was the fact that Taca did not begin there check in until 12. So there I was: Miami-Dade airport, sitting on the floor, my 30 lb pack still strapped on, waiting for Taca to open their gate. I have to say, rough mAy be an understatement as to how I looked at this point. The ladies gave me very odd looks when I was brushing my teeth and washing my face in the airport bathroom. I mean hey you do what you gotta do right? :)
Once in Lima, though, I have to say I have lucked out. My sister will not be here until Saturday, however, her friend from the coast is here and she and her host family have graciously agreed to another gringa in the house. So I have a safe, free place to crash and leave my gear bomb which is super nice. She stays in Miraflores which is a little suburb of Lima and slightly Americanized but quite busy and very walkable. That is if you can successfully dodge the taxi,s buses, combis and other crazy drivers :) although I think my driving would fit in well here.....Andrea you were right there.
My first day in miraflores I slept in super late And then strapped on my mini pack, armed with a guidebook and roamed. Being a gringo you learn reAl fast to walk quickly, headphones in, and eyes not connecting with anyone. Otherwise I feel you will feel totally harassed. I did speak with one interesting guy in el parquet Kennedy. He was nice enough but definitely had the machismo and flintiness trying. I think I disappointed him when I told him there was no way for him to contact me and that the point of this trip was for me to not make plans...pobrecito.
I did get quite lost that night. But i was rather amusing. Seee there are quite a few "óvalos" here in Lima where you have 6 or so streets intersect. I was on the right track and now looking back at it was only 2 streets over but for the life of me could not get there. So I eventually ducked into a mens clothing store and asked the clerk how to get over there. I felt like such a ding dong. Had I walked in the opposite direction I would have eventually gotten back over but kept turning back right before hand. But after speaking with this man. I was good to go. Though I did bump into a teenager (again a boy) who lightly made fun of me in spanish for walking "redondo" and asked me if I knew where I was going to which I responded that I never know where I'm going but iwas good. I think it confused him a bit.
Yesterday I walked to the coAst, of which I have some amazing photos which I will post when I return. Sorry Heidi...no 3 am photos till I get back :(. I took the road along the coast south into another suburb "barranco". Which is super cool. Very bohemian feel. Lots of cool architecture. A little dirty but in a good way. Not at all Americanized. Once again just roamed about, but this time with a map and I can now say I have luckily Gotten my bearings straight. Ate at a little veggie place. Super funny : I walked in around 7 and the place was dead. I had to poke my head around a corner to the kitchen to get anyone's attention. Apparently peruvians eat at like 3 and then again at 9 so they weren't expecting to see anyone. But it was a very good meal. I don't think a very Peruvian in style but damn it was tasty. And after walking for like 4 hours, my tummy was very happy.
That evening Lauren invited me along with her friend to a discoteca. It was interesting. What was funny was that we met up with her friend Pablo and took a combi to his friend alonzo's place to hang for a bit before. It was only like 9:00 and we could not go to " help" until 11....no one goes out before 111. At Alonzo's he had a girl staying there who went to school at state so she had invited a bunch of her friends over. It was weird. It was like a like a little NC reunion in Peru. Actually one of the girls knew some kids from the banks whom of course both Lauren and I knew. The discoteca was cool, just a guy playing a bunch of American rock and folks dancing. But being my old lady self had to leave about 1. I just don't have the staying power. So I bartered with a taxi and got myself home safely. Taxis are another funny part to Lima: they don't have meters, so you ask before hand what it would cost to get somewhere. Being a gringa, they almost always try to rip you off....i'm glad my Spanish is as good as it is thought; b/c when I look at them like they're crazy and then barter and obviously yes i'm a gringa...but not an idiot.
ok i had written a bunch more earlier today, but apparently it was erased. i'll tell you all about plaza mayor later.
besos y abrazos mis amores!
-la gringuita
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